Call Us Today!
You can ask any company to supply evidence of basic liability professional insurance. Any company that is not going to provide evidence of general liability (GL) insurance coverage ought to be prevented. A minimum basic for GL insurance is $1 million for residential work and $2 million for light commercial.
There are other approaches for looking into air conditioning, heating and ventilation companies such as: call your local Better Business Bereau (BBB), perform online searches and reviews and ask the company in question for references. However, all these approaches disappoint detailed openness. The BBB in fact works for the business it represents as they are just rated if the business in concern pays them a repeating cost. Online evaluation websites hardly ever show all the reviews got, and post reviews from sources that are not always reputable. This provides a platform for business to publish their own reviews and individuals to hastily publish evaluations without the business in question's capability to professionally deal with the concern. Additionally, no company would offer an unfavorable referral; only those that are very favorable. None of these are perfect dynamics for consumers looking for entirely objective evaluations and recommendations. It is recommended to utilize these methods as an informed customer and consider the details source for exactly what it is worth.
One of the very best ways to discover a brand-new air conditioning, heating and ventilation professional is by means of the "word-of-mouth" approach. If the company recommended was cost effective, professional and trustworthy for a good friend or household member, there is a great chance that business will do the very same for you. Good companies use the word-of-mouth technique to constantly supply a brand-new customer stream by keeping their consumers happy.
Other standard approaches for discovering a new air conditioning, heating and ventilation professional consist of performing online searches, phone book directory sites or online directory sites and other advertisement mediums. Keep in mind that all of these methods are purchased and paid for by the business in question. None of these methods ought to work as a review and ought to be used only as locating sources.
3rd party providers such as Angie's list, Discover Regional and other online companies are the most recent platforms for sourcing and ranking a/c, heating and ventilating business. Although these companies do provide a service with some benefit, they are, in fact, including cost to the consumer. Angie's List, as well as some other online company directories, charge the consumer directly for their rankings and business' contact details. Other third-party websites supply customers with air conditioning, heating and ventilation companies and add the cost of being a middle-man to the company equation. Keep in mind that none of these are "free" and that consumers need to understand the expense and value of using entities like these.
Numerous estimates are recommend when employing an air conditioning and heating professional. There are no industry requirements for pricing A/C associated product or service. Comparable tasks can differ thousands of dollars from one company to the next. A minimum of 3 quotes is suggested prior to the repair or replacement of any significant cooling and or heating unit element and prior to the design and setup of brand-new systems.
A consultation can be of value if the repair or replacement is expensive. Not all technicians or companies are equivalent or trustworthy. Repairing air conditioning and heating unit is extremely complicated. It is not unusual for a repair work specialist to be unable to isolate the issue or for an agent to suggest an unneeded purchases. Contacting a competing a/c and heating business can save time and money and remorse.
Why it’s Dumb to Drive Through Water (Fail) – DIY Car Repair with Scotty Kilmer
Frequently Asked Questions:
How Effective Is Central Air Conditioning By A Ductless System That New To Me?
I Saw An Ad In The Newspaper Where You Can Install A Central Air-Conditioning System
In An Old House Without The Need Of Adding Ducts Everywhere.
It Uses The Same Radiator System That Is Used For Heating !
I Would Imagine That There Would Be A Cooling Unit In The Basement That Is
Connected To The Same Piping That The Boiler Is Attached To. In The Summer, With
Anti-Freeze, The Cooling Unit System Could Get The Radiators As Cold As You Want.
If It'S Too Cold Anywhere You Would Turn The Bypass Valve There. A Very Small Fan
In Each Room May Be Necessary To Circulate The Air And Even Out The Temperature.
What Do You Think From A Physics/Engineering Perspective?
From A Thermodynamic Point Of View, Does The Radiator Cool Effectively?
In principle, the overall thermal conductance for the series of a pipe wall + convection to the outer air + convection from the inner fluid, should be approximately same in either direction, given the same flavor and phase of inner fluid, and the same specifications for the pipe.
That is to say, suppose in heating mode, you have hot water in a pipe with 45 Celsius water, routed through a room at 20 Celsius. If you have the same room operating in cooling mode at 30 Celsius, with water flowing through the pipe at 5 Celsius, you would get the same heat transfer per unit area as you had in heating mode, just in the opposite direction.
One problematic part with using water as the working fluid in the pipes, is that our accepted comfort room temperature (20 Celsius) is asymmetrically located between water's freezing and boiling points. You can get a lot more temperature differential from room air to liquid water, when using it as a heat supplier, than as a heat sink. For cooling mode, you can't get water colder than 0 Celsius, and have it still be water.
If cooling the house off to 20 C in the summer, you only have an available differential of 19 C to cause the heat transfer. In winter mode, you can heat the water up to perhaps 90 Celsius, and get a temperature differential of 70 Celsius to drive the heating of the air. So you can drive a lot more heat transfer in winter mode than in summer mode, simply due to the nature of water. Plus, you can also get a lot more temperature differential if you pressurize the water and heat it hotter than 100 C.
A second complication, is that the water in the pipes will not be the working fluid of your air conditioner's cycle. Usually, that is a refrigerant, and you don't want to circulate refrigerant throughout the house. You want to keep refrigerant local to the refrigeration system. This would mean, the refrigerator's evaporator would be the heat exchanger that collects all the heat that the chilling water absorbs. Another layer of complexity to couple coolant fluids.
A third complication is that the air we find isn't exclusively O2 and N2. It has water vapor as one of its components. Water vapor can condense out of the air as it cools, and you will be left with dripping water all along the outside of this pipe. Plus, you won't be able to control the humidity of the cooled air, since to control humidity, you need to cool and reheat air, so that it rejects water and then reheats to a comfortable 40% to 50% relative humidity. Just cooling it, will leave its relative humidity at 100% no matter how much you chill the air.
So a system like this, can only work well if you have hot and arid summers (like in Arizona). It won't work work well if you have hot and muggy summers (like in Florida).
The other performance concern of water's temperature range as the carrier fluid, you'd probably like to be in a region where your heating thermal loads in winter dominate beyond your cooling thermal loads in the summer. For instance, if it takes 10000 BTU per hour to operate your heating system most of the winter, and it takes 3000 BTU per hour to operate your cooling system most of the summer, then you might want to consider it. But not if it takes 10000 BTU per hour to both heat and cool your house in both winter and summer.
The temperature range issue can be solved, if a fluid other than water is used instead. Something like ethylene or propylene glycol, or a blend of these with water, so it won't need to get near freezing to be effective. When you first turn in on at the beginning of winter, you'd then need to run a rinse run, so you aren't boiling your antifreeze by mistake.
Why Is My Car Still Vibrating After A Tune-Up Was Done?
My Check Engine Light Came On. I Took It To Auto Zone To See Why It Was On. They Said It Needed A Tune Up. A Friend Of Mine Helped Me With The Tune Up. We Changed The Motor Oil, Spark Plugs, Oil Filter, Air Filter. We Did Not Change The Cables Because My Friend Said They Looked They Were In Good Shape. After The Tune Up My Car Is Still Shaking. I Think It'S Even Worse Now.
Does Anyone Know Anything About This?
Please Help. Thanks.
So, you had a problem before the tune-up was done? That is why an Auto Zone diagnosis is worth nothing, they told you to do something that you have already done! You did not provide the vehicle information YMM (year make model) of your car and it would be helpful in diagnosing your problem.
NOTE: An alignment issue will NOT cause a vibration or a shaking condition!
ADDED: A common issue that will cause a misfire on the 2.0L engine in your Protege' is a failed EGR valve and the pintle will rust and then stick open and allow EGR flow at idle and cause a P0300 misfire!
Air Humidity Problem? Really Important?
We Want A Certain Room To Have 50% Relative Humidity. In Order To Achieve That, We Need To Have Water With One Half The Vapor Pressure It Normally Has. This Can Be Done By Adding A Solute To The Water Such That The Molar Fraction Of The Water Is Close To 50%. What Type Of Solute Is This Soluble And Under What Condition? What Other Ways Can We Use To Achieve 50% Relative Humidity Through The Use Of Passive Systems?
60% Would Be Fine As Well.
The only way to control the relative humidity in a room with contained atmosphere is by temperature. For example, a cubic meter of air at 0 C can't contain more than 5 grams water. When it happens, the relative humidity is 100 percent. If you bring that air to 15 C, which is saturated with 13 grams water, the relative humidity will be 5 / 13 * 100 = 38 percent.
EDITED: Michaelas10, I suggest you ask your question to the Physics section of Yahoo!Answers and not the Weather one. In meteorology, a parcel of atmospheric air that is not renewed sees a daily relative humidity variation with the daily temperature. If it reaches dew point temperature at the end of the night, the relative humidity is 100 percent. When the temperature increases during daytime, it drops to much lower. Hence the Sahara desert where small reptiles and insects survive by drinking dew, early in the morning, while, at noon, the RH can be as low as 30 percent.
I don't know the Rault's law that - I guess - is more about physic than meteorology. The latter is what I have been teaching pilots for years and I never came across that law in everything I have ever read about meteorology both for aviators and seafarers.
How Many Square Inches Are Need For The Return Suction Duct Per 1 Ton On A/C Air Conditioning Units?
I Am Going To Buy A New A/C Unit That Is 5.5 Tons And I Would Like To Know What Would Be The Minimum Filter Size For The Suction Return Duct.
Any Suggestions Would Help. Thank You.
Its not the filter size to worry about, its the return duct that runs back to the furnace, and it should flow about the same as it puts out, really not enough info to correctly answer the question, did you have a 5.5 before, or adding a/c to a current heat system, if your just upsizing your ac unit outside the air flow will not change, so you should have enough, if you currently have a return air that is kinda noisy it might be too small, just add a small one in another room to supplement the one you have, hope this helps
Is My Central Air Conditioner Undersized?
I Have A 1400 Sq. Foot Home With A Tempstar 2.5 Ton All-In-One Packaged Unit With Heatpump. I Live In Nashville, Tn So The Weather Here Can Get Pretty Humid During Spring And Summer Months. The Problem I Have Is My Electric Bill Which Is Averaging Around $250 A Month When I'M Running My Central Unit. By Process Of Elimination We'Ve Determined That The Bulk Of The Power Is Coming From The Central Unit. My Unit Does Cool Fine And Cycles Off When It'S Not So Humid But When It Is Very Humid It Runs Almost All Day Long Without Shutting Off. I Keep The Temp. Set At 73 Degrees All The Time Which Is A Comfortable Temp. For Me And My Wife. Any Higher Then We Do Tend To Get A Little Hot Especially If We'Re Moving Around The House A Lot. We Have A New Construction Home With A Crawl Space Where Are Venting Is. Lots Of Insulation Under The Floor And In The Attic. Our Venting Has Been Checked For Leaks And Has Been Modified With A 16&Quot; Return Vent From Our Local Hvac Contractor Which Is What It Is Suppose To Have. It Origianlly Have A 14&Quot;. They Say That The Venting Is In Tip Top Shape And The Unit Doesn'T Seem To Be Undersized. We Live In The Country With No Shade Trees What So Ever And The Sun Rises Right Directly In Front Of Our House And Sets Directly Behind Our House So The Sun Is Constantly Beeming Down On The House Most Of The Day. Is It Possible That This Unit Is Operating Properly Or Is It Maybe Just Not Able To Handle The Heat Load? I Have Not Had A Manual J Heatload Calcuation Done. The Contractor Did Chose This Unit When The House Was Built.
Usually when a unit is installed, it is designed to accommodate the local environment and cool the entire volume of the property it serves. Some common problems I have found with air conditioning units such as the one we had in Chicago is that debris could foul the external portion of the unit preventing good air flow. Make sure you occasionally keep it clear, especially with the cotton wood trees. They could foul a unit in one day. We also had an installed dehumidifier which removed a high volume of water that was piped to the drains and aided in keeping the house very cool. Drier air cools better than wet air. Lastly, and it seems highly unlikely in your case, you should check to see the efficiency of your double glazing. Some windows allow a large amount of UV light and essentially energy into the home. If the home is newer it is highly unlikely. If I were to pick the most likely problem, I would bet it is the humidity which is an issue. One way to test this it to purchase a portable unit and keep the home closed up with the dehumidifier in operation. If it seems to keep much cooler than you normally would expect, have a dehumidifier installed and plumbed to drain. I would recommend you taking readings across a normal week in different rooms to see what the first effect is; then measure the rooms temperatures with the dehumidifier in operation. Good luck!