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You can ask any business to offer evidence of general liability specialist insurance. Any company that is not ready to offer evidence of general liability (GL) insurance should be avoided. A minimum standard for GL insurance is $1 million for residential work and $2 million for light business.

There are other techniques for investigating a/c, heating and ventilation companies such as: call your regional Better Business Bereau (BBB), perform online searches and reviews and ask the company in concern for references. However, all these approaches fall short of comprehensive transparency. The BBB in fact works for the companies it represents as they are just ranked if the business in question pays them a repeating charge. Online evaluation sites seldom display all of the evaluations got, and post evaluations from sources that are not constantly reputable. This offers a platform for business to publish their own reviews and people to hastily publish reviews without the business in concern's capability to expertly fix the concern. In addition, no business would offer a negative recommendation; just those that are extremely favorable. None of these are ideal characteristics for consumers looking for completely impartial evaluations and referrals. It is encouraged to use these methods as an educated consumer and consider the details source for what it is worth.

Among the very best ways to discover a brand-new cooling, heating and ventilation specialist is via the "word-of-mouth" technique. If the company recommended was budget friendly, professional and dependable for a friend or family member, there is a great chance that company will do the same for you. Excellent companies use the word-of-mouth technique to continually offer a brand-new client stream by keeping their customers pleased.

Other standard methods for finding a brand-new cooling, heating and ventilation contractor consist of performing online searches, phonebook directory sites or online directories and other advertisement mediums. Bear in mind that all of these approaches are purchased and paid for by the companies in concern. None of these approaches need to serve as a review and needs to be used only as locating sources.

3rd celebration companies such as Angie's list, Discover Local and other online business are the latest platforms for sourcing and score a/c, heating and ventilating business. Although these companies do offer a service with some benefit, they are, in truth, adding cost to the customer. Angie's List, as well as some other online organisation directories, charge the client directly for their ratings and business' contact information. Other third-party sites supply customers with a/c, heating and ventilation companies and add the expense of being a middle-man to the business formula. Bear in mind that none of these are "complimentary" which customers ought to comprehend the expense and worth of using entities like these.

Multiple price quotes are suggest when working with an a/c and heating professional. There are no market requirements for pricing HEATING AND COOLING related service or items. Comparable jobs can vary countless dollars from one business to the next. A minimum of 3 estimates is advised prior to the repair work or replacement of any significant air conditioning and or heating system part and before the design and installation of brand-new systems.

A consultation can be of value if the repair work or replacement is costly. Not all professionals or business are equivalent or reliable. Repairing air conditioning and heating systems is extremely complicated. It is not unusual for a repair professional to be unable to separate the problem or for an agent to advise an unnecessary purchases. Calling a contending cooling and heating business can conserve money and time and regret.

LED BULB REPAIR | HOW TO REPAIR LED LIGHTS

Frequently Asked Questions:

How Is It Possible That A 80% Air And A 20% Fuel Mixture Ends Up Inside Of A Gas Tank?
A 80% To 20% Ratio Is The Bare Minimun Amount Of Air Reguired For A Minimun Explosion And Even A Tiny Amount Liquid Fuel Would Saturate The Inside Of A Gas Tank With Hydrocarbon Vapors.

This is simple. In order to feed the engine fuel, air must replace the jet fuel for av-gas that has left the tank to service the engine. When the tank is near empty, the amount of fuel versus air can easily reach those levels. It doesn't take much gasoline in a closed environment to have a devastating effect if ignited by a short circuit in the fuel senders or a static spark. Add the placement of a heat source under the tank such as an air conditioning unit , then there is a huge driving force to
vaporize Jet A and make it even easier to explode.

If you had collapsible bladder tanks then the air would not need to enter the tank however you would need to to make sure the collapse process did not cut off the supply hose out of the tank. A perfect sphere would work...just not practical use of space.

The other way to prevent it would be to use compressed Nitrogen as the replacement gas when the tanks are emptying to prevent the explosive mixture from happening. The US Air Force actually does this with their large fuel tanks.

Take two metal tennis ball cans and punch out most of the bottom of the top can and tape together. Drill a small hole in the bottom can. Drop a tennis ball down the top can so it stops at the bottom of the top can yet can freely move up and out. Take just 1 ml of Ronson lighter fluid and add it to the bottom can through the little hole. (Simulating a near empty gas tank.) Pass a match by the little hole and the resulting explosion will rocket the tennis ball out of sight. When a fuel tank is near empty it IS THE MOST DANGEROUS TIME for a short circuit or static spark to occur. I have seen incidents kids killed sitting on a near empty 20,000 gallon gasoline tank smoking a cigarette and the resulting explosion left only parts of unrecognizable flesh.


If you still don't believe me that the fuel tank needs to vent air from the outside to equalize the pressure of the fuel leaving then crazy glue the vent holes on your automotive gas cap. They are one way vents... they let air in but close to prevent fuel vapors leaving the tank. Either your engine will quit running after 50-100 miles or your metal gas tank will collapse like smushed pop can. (People believe things easier if the lesson cost them a lot of money to disprove a false conception.) A new gas tank will cost about $750.00

Does A Furnace Have Anything To Do With The Ability To Add Central Air?
I Live In Colorado Springs, Co. When I First Bought This House, I Had The Furnace Checked Out By An Hvac Guy. When I Asked Him If I Would Be Able To Add Central Air To The House, He Said Something Along The Lines Of &Quot;The Furnace Will Need To Be Replaced With A Newer One To Add Central Air.&Quot; I Was Wondering, That Since There Are Already Vents In The Entire House, Does It Really Matter How Old The Furnace Is? Wouldn'T The A/C Just Blow Air Through The Vents, Regardless Of The Furnace? The House Was Built In 1968 And I Suspect That The Furnace Is Probably The Original- The Brand Name Is Lennox. However, On The Furnace It Has A Sticker That Says You Can Add-On An Air Conditioner, Electronic Air Cleaner, Etc. I Have Not Gotten Any Quote Yet, So I Haven'T Got A Second Opinion, But If The Summer Next Year Is Anything Like It Has Been This Year I'M Going To Need To Do Something About My Hot House.

Two potential issues come to mind. With heat only, there is a chance the existing furnace does not have a sufficiently sized blower to provide the necessary CFM to push conditioned air, which is heavier than heated air. Additionally, in many cases, the existing duct work may not be sufficient to move the required amount of air to each space. The only way to know for sure, though, is to have a Manual J (Residential Load Calculation) and a Manual D (Residential Duct Systems) performed by a qualified HVAC technician.

'95 Mustang Air Conditioning Smells Like Antifreeze?
While Using My Air Conditioning In My Mustang Tonight, Steam Started Coming Out Of The Vents And It Smelled Like Antifreeze. When The Steam Stopped The Air Coming Out Stilled Smelled. When I Got Home I Checked The Oil And It Looks Like It Might Be Low.( I'Ve Never Checked Oil Before) I Also Checked The Radiator Coolant Container And It'S Empty. I Know Those Two Things Are Bad But Don'T Know How Bad And Will Get Them Filled Up Tomorrow. Also, The Area Under The Dash On The Passenger Side Where You Put Your Feet Seemed To Be Sweating. I Touched The Liquid And It Wasn'T Antifreeze, Just Water. What Is Wrong , How Much Might It Cost, And How Bad Is It ? Thank You For Any Knowledgeable And Serious Input !

For not knowing much you sure are off to a good start, yes top off your oil and coolant (you could do this yourself). Oil- put in 1/2 quart at a time, go slow- use a funnel give oil a minute to make it's way down to pan, check often till at the 'full' line on dip stick (ok if you put a bit too much in (just above line -ok). Coolant's a little diff but same process (look at cap you should take the pink / orange type- not green). When coolant is full, install cap, start engine, run about 10 min, let cool a bit, carefully open coolant cap (just be aware, may be warm/ hot) turn open 1/4 turn till off. Do this 2-3 times, till full and stays full.--Your cooling system is a closed system, meaning the only reason you need to ever add to, is if you have some sort of leak-- This leads to 'smoke-smell' from vents. Right in checking passenger floor, check again with hand, pull carpet back if needed. If sticky or smells 'sweet' your heater core is leaking (that's two problems in one). If you think its just water, your a/c drain is clogged, no prob- under car just about where (above a bit) is a little black rubber hose hanging down. It has dirt built up in it, with just a screwdriver stick up through from bottom, tap around and clear out. Now at some point you will need to have the cooling system checked for leaks, also oil leaks, but for a 95 just keep an eye on things and check often.- OK sound like alot but it's just steps to take and saves you a few hundred bucks. YOU GOT THIS.

Does Running A Vehicle With Air Conditioning On Use More Gas?
Vs. Running That Same Vehicle With The Air Conditioning Off? And Does Higher Blower Setting Equal Even More Gas Used? What About The Heater?

This question has been around for as long there's been AC in cars and it's actually just a matter of opinions. It's one of those questions that certified mechanics can sit around and debate for hours.

There's only one sure way to decide for yourself which way is best for you and your vehicle. Check your gas mileage with the AC on and windows up and then check it vise versa.

I seen the same thing on Myth Busters. However, as a mechanic, I had to see for myself and did research of my own. Guess what I found.

My wife's '95 cherokee gets better gas mileage with the AC on and the windows up.
My '84 F150 gets better gas mileage with the AC off and the windows open, including the rear split glass.

So my own results proved that it depends on the vehicle.

********Also for those who may be wondering, my truck does get better mileage with the tailgate UP rather than down.*****************

Goodman Air Conditioning/Heat Pump System: Comes On, Won'T Blow Any Air.?
Model Gph13h, It'S A Horizontal Heat Pump System, Outdoors. It Comes On With The Thermostat, But No Air Blows Out Of The Vents In The House. By &Quot;Comes On,&Quot; I Mean The Big Fan Comes On (Actually Kinda Sounds Like A Cessna) And When I Look In The Fan Cavity, The Pipes Are Iced, So I Know Something Is Cooling. I'Ve Shut It Off Completely In The Hopes That The Problem Is That The Unit Is Iced Solid Inside (I'M Not Opening Anything To Check, Since I Have No Clue What I'M Looking At.) It Can'T Be The Filter, Because I Hosed It Off A Week Ago, And When I Checked It Just Now, It'S Still Clear And Wide Open. Its Only 23 Months Old. What Do I Look For Here?

With the coil being iced over there is most likely a leak in the system. You can look at all the connections for any signs of refrigerant oil. You will need to call a service company. If you remove the inside cover where the inside lines go into the evaporator coil, you may thaw this out with a box fan blowing on it. Leave the unit turned off until thawed. You may then turn it on and see how long it runs before re icing. Be sure to replace all covers before turning back on.
The inside fan could also cause the freeze up. If it isn't blowing, the coil will also freeze.

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