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You can ask any business to supply proof of basic liability specialist insurance. Any business that is not prepared to provide proof of general liability (GL) insurance ought to be avoided. A minimum basic for GL insurance is $1 million for property work and $2 million for light business.
There are other approaches for investigating a/c, heating and ventilation companies such as: contact your local Better Business Bereau (BBB), carry out online searches and evaluations and ask the company in question for referrals. Nevertheless, all of these methods disappoint detailed transparency. The BBB actually works for the business it represents as they are just rated if the business in concern pays them a recurring cost. Online review websites hardly ever display all of the evaluations got, and post reviews from sources that are not always reputable. This provides a platform for companies to post their own evaluations and individuals to hastily post reviews without the business in concern's capability to expertly solve the issue. In addition, no company would provide a negative recommendation; just those that are extremely positive. None of these are ideal characteristics for consumers seeking totally unbiased reviews and references. It is encouraged to use these techniques as an informed customer and consider the info source for what it deserves.
One of the finest ways to find a new a/c, heating and ventilation specialist is by means of the "word-of-mouth" approach. If the company suggested was inexpensive, professional and dependable for a buddy or member of the family, there is a likelihood that company will do the same for you. Excellent companies utilize the word-of-mouth approach to continually offer a brand-new customer stream by keeping their clients pleased.
Other traditional approaches for discovering a new cooling, heating and ventilation contractor consist of performing online searches, phonebook directories or online directory sites and other ad mediums. Keep in mind that all of these approaches are bought and spent for by the business in concern. None of these approaches need to work as a review and should be utilized only as locating sources.
3rd party service providers such as Angie's list, Discover Local and other online companies are the most recent platforms for sourcing and score air conditioning, heating and aerating business. Although these companies do supply a service with some benefit, they are, in truth, including cost to the customer. Angie's List, along with some other online organisation directories, charge the client directly for their ratings and companies' contact details. Other third-party sites provide customers with a/c, heating and ventilation business and include the cost of being a middle-man to the business equation. Bear in mind that none of these are "complimentary" which customers must understand the cost and worth of utilizing entities like these.
Numerous price quotes are advise when hiring a cooling and heating professional. There are no market standards for prices A/C associated product or service. Comparable tasks can vary thousands of dollars from one business to the next. A minimum of three quotes is advised prior to the repair or replacement of any major cooling and or heater component and prior to the style and setup of new systems.
A consultation can be of worth if the repair or replacement is costly. Not all professionals or companies are equal or credible. Fixing air conditioning and heating systems is extremely complicated. It is not unusual for a repair work technician to be unable to isolate the issue or for an agent to recommend an unnecessary purchases. Calling a completing a/c and heating business can conserve money and time and remorse.
Jay Young Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning – Gas Line Repair
Frequently Asked Questions:
What Would An Approximate Cost Be To Add Air Conditioning To A 2000 Square Foot House?
The House Already Has A Forced Air Heating System So No New Vents Would Need To Be Added.
It takes more info than just the square footage of the home. First you need to know the size of the unit. This is found through a process known as load calculation. Then you need to decide what efficiency and the added features you want in the unit because that affects the price. Then you can compare brands to find the best value. You can find all of this info at my source.
Fresh Air In Summer Vs Winter?
In Summer When Windows Are Closed For Air Conditioning, The Air Seems To Get Stale Faster, And After A Few Days, If The Outdoor Temperature Goes Down Enough To Turn Off The A/C And Open The Windows, It Makes A Lot Of Difference To How Fresh The Air Seems. But, In Winter, When The Windows Are Closed For Heating, The Air Doesn'T Seem To Get Stale As Fast, And When It Warms Enough Outside To Open The Windows For A Few Hours, It Doesn'T Make As Much Difference As It Does In Summer.
Why Is That? What'S Different Between Winter And Summer, That Causes The Indoor Air To Get Stale Faster In Summer?
Well, it depends on what you mean by the air being "stale." It is a rather subjective impression. But what may be the cause you feel like it, is this:
The warmer it is, the more moisture the air can contain. If you warm up a parcel of air, its relative humidity sinks. During the summer, for the same relative humidity outside, there is more moisture in the air. As that air enters your A/C, it cools down, thus bringing it to dew point temperature, which means, 100 percent relative humidity. As you know, A/C units produce water that must be drained. That water is the condensation of saturated air.
During the winter, when the house is heated, the air outside can be 100 percent relative humidity but once warmed up, it drops to a quite dry air. Here are some example with temperatures that I remember the absolute humidity by heart.
If a cubic meter of air at 0 C is entirely saturated, it contains 5 grams of water. At 15 C, it can contain 13 grams. If I warm up that air, the relative humidity will drop from 100 percent to 5 / 13 * 100 = 38 percent and that is very dry air!
So, your perception of "stale" air is in its relative humidity. High relative humidity helps the growth of fungi and bacteria.It also reduces the evaporation of our sweat that that is why a hot humid climate feels unpleasant. Sweating is our body's way of controlling heat. Evaporation takes latent heat energy.
How Much Does Air Conditioning And Heating Cost To Buy And Install?
Our Home Is 11 Years Old, And Everything Functions Well. I Am Not Thrilled About Our Utility Costs So Was Wondering How Much It Costs To Replace Existing System With New, Energy Efficient Systems. House 2100 Sq.Ft.
Looks like a system of about 5 tons (60 kBtu) in capacity if you go by the rule of thumb of 400 sq. ft. / ton. This will vary depending on weather region, window area, other internal heat loads and amount of insulation your home has. My guess is that you have a system that may be rated as SEER 8 or 10 because of its age. You'll want to look at a new system that has a SEER 13 (Federal minimum standard) or greater. A new unit with a SEER 13 will save about 23% on energy costs when compared to the old unit (SEER 10). The savings could be higher (about 38%) if the old unit has a SEER 8.
Make sure the new compressor is properly matched to the coils to ensure you get the correct SEER ratings. Otherwise mismatched coils may decrease the rating somewhat and the system not operate at its optimum performance. Fan flow (cfm) of the air handler is an important factor when considering SEER ratings along with the system being properly charged with refrigerant. If the new and old system does not have the proper air flow or refrigerant charge, your system won't operate according to specifications.
You need to see if the old system is properly charged and the coils are clean. This could be another huge cause for excessive energy use. It's a cheap fix provided their aren't any leaks in coils.
I first suggest you treat the building envelope for air infiltration (weather stripping, outlet gaskets, seal plumbing penetrations etc.) and seal the ducts before going to the big expense of buying a new AC system. Leaky ducts can account for 30%-40% of conditioned air being lost into attic or other unconditioned spaces. To find the leaks, testing would be done through the use of a blower door and Duct blaster. Your local utility may be able to do this for you for free. You can also contact a HERS Rater to do this. The small investment for testing and sealing up leaks could possibly solve your energy use problems without going to a lot of expense by replacing the existing system that has about 50% of it service life remaining. If the electric bills don't go down, then look at a more efficient system. Work from the cheapest solution to the most expensive.
To figure out how much energy your AC is using, take your three highest monthly bills (summer months) and average the energy (kWh) use, then take the lowest three months of energy use (winter months) and average those months as well. Subtract the winter months average from the Summer months average. The difference between the two figures is a good indication of how much energy your air conditioning is using.
To find AC operational cost, divide the average summer bill (dollars) by the average summer kWh. This will give you an average $/kWh. Multiply the average $/kWh times the difference between the summer average kWh and winter kWh. This will be an approximate of how much your air conditioning costs to operate:
Cost could run as low as $3,700 to $5,500 depending on who does the work, brand and required work to install; provided existing duct and electrical service are in good shape.
Do I Have Air Conditioning Or Just Heat?
I Have A Knob Thermostat In My Room. The Settings Go From Lo (Which Is Off) To 50 And All The Way To 90 Through Increments Of Ten.
It Is Pretty Hot In My Room To Begin With As It Is In The Middle Of Summer But When I Put The Thermostat To 60 Or So, Hot Air Comes Out.
There Is Nothing On The Actual Fan/Vent That I Can Push. Maybe My System Is Just Heat? I'M Not Sure Because 50 Seems Like It Would Be Pretty Cool, But Maybe The Numbers Don'T Signify Temperature?
Not Sure What'S Going On Here.
It's hard to tell just your thermostat. Lot's of times people will install a stat that works for both heat and a/c on a +heat only+ system (just because they're easier to find). Look outside for a condensor (usually round and blows hot air out the top - when it's on). If you have on of those, at some point you had a/c - if it's blowing hot air out the top, you have a/c. Another way to check, is to look for copper lines at your furnace - an indication of an a/c system. Air-conditioning systems are almost always hooked up to furnaces in residential homes (because they use the same blower to make the air circulate). Some homes have a "Package-Uint" on the roof, which has everything inside if it. It will be hard for you to figure out if you have a Package-Unit +without air-conditioning+, but it's unlikely you do, as they don't normally install them in residential applications. The numbers on your thermostat are temp. indicators, but sometimes they're off or just stop working altogether.
A 4 Ton Air Conditioning System That Requires An Input Power Of 5 Kw Would Have An Energy Efficiency Ratio Of ?
Well one ton of air conditioning is equal to 3.504 kilowatts. So 4 tons of ac would be equal to 14 kw. So your efficiency would be 14/5=280 percent.