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You can ask any company to supply evidence of general liability professional insurance. Any company that is not ready to offer evidence of basic liability (GL) insurance should be prevented. A minimum basic for GL insurance is $1 million for domestic work and $2 million for light commercial.
There are other approaches for investigating air conditioning, heating and ventilation business such as: contact your local Better Business Bereau (BBB), perform online searches and reviews and ask the company in concern for recommendations. However, all these techniques disappoint detailed transparency. The BBB really works for the business it represents as they are only ranked if the company in concern pays them a repeating fee. Online evaluation sites rarely show all of the evaluations received, and post evaluations from sources that are not constantly reputable. This provides a platform for business to post their own evaluations and individuals to hastily publish evaluations without the company in concern's capability to professionally resolve the concern. Additionally, no business would provide a negative reference; just those that are incredibly favorable. None of these are perfect characteristics for customers seeking entirely unbiased evaluations and recommendations. It is advised to utilize these approaches as an informed consumer and think about the information source for what it is worth.
Among the very best methods to find a new cooling, heating and ventilation contractor is through the "word-of-mouth" approach. If the business suggested was cost effective, expert and dependable for a friend or member of the family, there is a likelihood that company will do the very same for you. Great companies utilize the word-of-mouth technique to constantly supply a brand-new consumer stream by keeping their customers pleased.
Other standard techniques for discovering a brand-new a/c, heating and ventilation professional include performing online searches, phone book directories or online directories and other ad mediums. Remember that all of these techniques are purchased and spent for by the business in concern. None of these methods should function as a review and must be used just as locating sources.
3rd party companies such as Angie's list, Find Local and other online business are the most recent platforms for sourcing and ranking a/c, heating and aerating companies. Although these business do supply a service with some benefit, they are, in reality, including cost to the consumer. Angie's List, along with some other online business directory sites, charge the customer directly for their ratings and business' contact info. Other third-party sites provide customers with air conditioning, heating and ventilation business and include the expense of being a middle-man to the company equation. Keep in mind that none of these are "totally free" which consumers ought to understand the cost and value of utilizing entities like these.
Several price quotes are suggest when working with an a/c and heating professional. There are no market requirements for pricing HEATING AND COOLING associated product or service. Comparable jobs can vary countless dollars from one company to the next. A minimum of 3 quotes is recommended prior to the repair or replacement of any significant cooling and or heater component and before the style and installation of new systems.
A consultation can be of worth if the repair or replacement is expensive. Not all service technicians or companies are equal or trusted. Fixing a/c and heating systems is extremely intricate. It is not uncommon for a repair technician to be not able to isolate the issue or for a representative to suggest an unneeded purchases. Calling a competing cooling and heating business can conserve time and money and remorse.
Inexpensive AC Repair Service Folsom CA 916-295-6285
Frequently Asked Questions:
How Is It Possible That A 80% Air And A 20% Fuel Mixture Ends Up Inside Of A Gas Tank?
A 80% To 20% Ratio Is The Bare Minimun Amount Of Air Reguired For A Minimun Explosion And Even A Tiny Amount Liquid Fuel Would Saturate The Inside Of A Gas Tank With Hydrocarbon Vapors.
This is simple. In order to feed the engine fuel, air must replace the jet fuel for av-gas that has left the tank to service the engine. When the tank is near empty, the amount of fuel versus air can easily reach those levels. It doesn't take much gasoline in a closed environment to have a devastating effect if ignited by a short circuit in the fuel senders or a static spark. Add the placement of a heat source under the tank such as an air conditioning unit , then there is a huge driving force to
vaporize Jet A and make it even easier to explode.
If you had collapsible bladder tanks then the air would not need to enter the tank however you would need to to make sure the collapse process did not cut off the supply hose out of the tank. A perfect sphere would work...just not practical use of space.
The other way to prevent it would be to use compressed Nitrogen as the replacement gas when the tanks are emptying to prevent the explosive mixture from happening. The US Air Force actually does this with their large fuel tanks.
Take two metal tennis ball cans and punch out most of the bottom of the top can and tape together. Drill a small hole in the bottom can. Drop a tennis ball down the top can so it stops at the bottom of the top can yet can freely move up and out. Take just 1 ml of Ronson lighter fluid and add it to the bottom can through the little hole. (Simulating a near empty gas tank.) Pass a match by the little hole and the resulting explosion will rocket the tennis ball out of sight. When a fuel tank is near empty it IS THE MOST DANGEROUS TIME for a short circuit or static spark to occur. I have seen incidents kids killed sitting on a near empty 20,000 gallon gasoline tank smoking a cigarette and the resulting explosion left only parts of unrecognizable flesh.
If you still don't believe me that the fuel tank needs to vent air from the outside to equalize the pressure of the fuel leaving then crazy glue the vent holes on your automotive gas cap. They are one way vents... they let air in but close to prevent fuel vapors leaving the tank. Either your engine will quit running after 50-100 miles or your metal gas tank will collapse like smushed pop can. (People believe things easier if the lesson cost them a lot of money to disprove a false conception.) A new gas tank will cost about $750.00
Does A Furnace Have Anything To Do With The Ability To Add Central Air?
I Live In Colorado Springs, Co. When I First Bought This House, I Had The Furnace Checked Out By An Hvac Guy. When I Asked Him If I Would Be Able To Add Central Air To The House, He Said Something Along The Lines Of &Quot;The Furnace Will Need To Be Replaced With A Newer One To Add Central Air.&Quot; I Was Wondering, That Since There Are Already Vents In The Entire House, Does It Really Matter How Old The Furnace Is? Wouldn'T The A/C Just Blow Air Through The Vents, Regardless Of The Furnace? The House Was Built In 1968 And I Suspect That The Furnace Is Probably The Original- The Brand Name Is Lennox. However, On The Furnace It Has A Sticker That Says You Can Add-On An Air Conditioner, Electronic Air Cleaner, Etc. I Have Not Gotten Any Quote Yet, So I Haven'T Got A Second Opinion, But If The Summer Next Year Is Anything Like It Has Been This Year I'M Going To Need To Do Something About My Hot House.
Two potential issues come to mind. With heat only, there is a chance the existing furnace does not have a sufficiently sized blower to provide the necessary CFM to push conditioned air, which is heavier than heated air. Additionally, in many cases, the existing duct work may not be sufficient to move the required amount of air to each space. The only way to know for sure, though, is to have a Manual J (Residential Load Calculation) and a Manual D (Residential Duct Systems) performed by a qualified HVAC technician.
'95 Mustang Air Conditioning Smells Like Antifreeze?
While Using My Air Conditioning In My Mustang Tonight, Steam Started Coming Out Of The Vents And It Smelled Like Antifreeze. When The Steam Stopped The Air Coming Out Stilled Smelled. When I Got Home I Checked The Oil And It Looks Like It Might Be Low.( I'Ve Never Checked Oil Before) I Also Checked The Radiator Coolant Container And It'S Empty. I Know Those Two Things Are Bad But Don'T Know How Bad And Will Get Them Filled Up Tomorrow. Also, The Area Under The Dash On The Passenger Side Where You Put Your Feet Seemed To Be Sweating. I Touched The Liquid And It Wasn'T Antifreeze, Just Water. What Is Wrong , How Much Might It Cost, And How Bad Is It ?
Thank You For Any Knowledgeable And Serious Input !
For not knowing much you sure are off to a good start, yes top off your oil and coolant (you could do this yourself). Oil- put in 1/2 quart at a time, go slow- use a funnel give oil a minute to make it's way down to pan, check often till at the 'full' line on dip stick (ok if you put a bit too much in (just above line -ok). Coolant's a little diff but same process (look at cap you should take the pink / orange type- not green). When coolant is full, install cap, start engine, run about 10 min, let cool a bit, carefully open coolant cap (just be aware, may be warm/ hot) turn open 1/4 turn till off. Do this 2-3 times, till full and stays full.--Your cooling system is a closed system, meaning the only reason you need to ever add to, is if you have some sort of leak-- This leads to 'smoke-smell' from vents. Right in checking passenger floor, check again with hand, pull carpet back if needed. If sticky or smells 'sweet' your heater core is leaking (that's two problems in one). If you think its just water, your a/c drain is clogged, no prob- under car just about where (above a bit) is a little black rubber hose hanging down. It has dirt built up in it, with just a screwdriver stick up through from bottom, tap around and clear out. Now at some point you will need to have the cooling system checked for leaks, also oil leaks, but for a 95 just keep an eye on things and check often.- OK sound like alot but it's just steps to take and saves you a few hundred bucks. YOU GOT THIS.
Does Running A Vehicle With Air Conditioning On Use More Gas?
Vs. Running That Same Vehicle With The Air Conditioning Off?
And Does Higher Blower Setting Equal Even More Gas Used?
What About The Heater?
This question has been around for as long there's been AC in cars and it's actually just a matter of opinions. It's one of those questions that certified mechanics can sit around and debate for hours.
There's only one sure way to decide for yourself which way is best for you and your vehicle. Check your gas mileage with the AC on and windows up and then check it vise versa.
I seen the same thing on Myth Busters. However, as a mechanic, I had to see for myself and did research of my own. Guess what I found.
My wife's '95 cherokee gets better gas mileage with the AC on and the windows up.
My '84 F150 gets better gas mileage with the AC off and the windows open, including the rear split glass.
So my own results proved that it depends on the vehicle.
********Also for those who may be wondering, my truck does get better mileage with the tailgate UP rather than down.*****************
Goodman Air Conditioning/Heat Pump System: Comes On, Won'T Blow Any Air.?
Model Gph13h, It'S A Horizontal Heat Pump System, Outdoors. It Comes On With The Thermostat, But No Air Blows Out Of The Vents In The House. By &Quot;Comes On,&Quot; I Mean The Big Fan Comes On (Actually Kinda Sounds Like A Cessna) And When I Look In The Fan Cavity, The Pipes Are Iced, So I Know Something Is Cooling. I'Ve Shut It Off Completely In The Hopes That The Problem Is That The Unit Is Iced Solid Inside (I'M Not Opening Anything To Check, Since I Have No Clue What I'M Looking At.) It Can'T Be The Filter, Because I Hosed It Off A Week Ago, And When I Checked It Just Now, It'S Still Clear And Wide Open. Its Only 23 Months Old. What Do I Look For Here?
With the coil being iced over there is most likely a leak in the system. You can look at all the connections for any signs of refrigerant oil. You will need to call a service company. If you remove the inside cover where the inside lines go into the evaporator coil, you may thaw this out with a box fan blowing on it. Leave the unit turned off until thawed. You may then turn it on and see how long it runs before re icing. Be sure to replace all covers before turning back on.
The inside fan could also cause the freeze up. If it isn't blowing, the coil will also freeze.