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You can ask any company to supply proof of basic liability professional insurance. Any company that is not ready to offer proof of general liability (GL) insurance ought to be prevented. A minimum basic for GL insurance is $1 million for domestic work and $2 million for light business.
There are other approaches for investigating a/c, heating and ventilation business such as: contact your local Better Business Bereau (BBB), carry out online searches and evaluations and ask the company in concern for references. However, all of these methods disappoint extensive transparency. The BBB really works for the business it represents as they are just rated if the company in concern pays them a recurring fee. Online review websites rarely show all the reviews received, and post evaluations from sources that are not always credible. This offers a platform for business to post their own reviews and individuals to quickly post reviews without the business in question's capability to professionally resolve the problem. Furthermore, no company would give out an unfavorable reference; just those that are extremely favorable. None of these are ideal dynamics for consumers looking for completely objective reviews and referrals. It is recommended to use these approaches as an informed customer and consider the information source for what it is worth.
One of the very best methods to discover a brand-new cooling, heating and ventilation professional is by means of the "word-of-mouth" method. If the company advised was economical, professional and reliable for a friend or family member, there is a likelihood that business will do the exact same for you. Excellent companies use the word-of-mouth method to continually provide a new customer stream by keeping their clients pleased.
Other standard methods for finding a brand-new cooling, heating and ventilation professional include performing online searches, telephone directory directory sites or online directory sites and other advertisement mediums. Keep in mind that all of these techniques are purchased and spent for by the business in concern. None of these methods must act as a testimonial and should be utilized just as locating sources.
3rd party providers such as Angie's list, Discover Local and other online companies are the newest platforms for sourcing and score cooling, heating and ventilating business. Although these business do provide a service with some benefit, they are, in truth, including cost to the consumer. Angie's List, along with some other online company directory sites, charge the consumer directly for their rankings and business' contact information. Other third-party websites provide customers with air conditioning, heating and ventilation business and add the cost of being a middle-man to business equation. Bear in mind that none of these are "complimentary" and that customers must comprehend the cost and value of utilizing entities like these.
Multiple quotes are recommend when working with an air conditioning and heating specialist. There are no market requirements for pricing HVAC related product or service. Comparable jobs can differ countless dollars from one company to the next. A minimum of three estimates is suggested prior to the repair work or replacement of any significant air conditioning and or heating system part and before the style and setup of new systems.
A 2nd viewpoint can be of value if the repair work or replacement is costly. Not all professionals or companies are equivalent or respectable. Repairing a/c and heating unit is very complex. It is not unusual for a repair service technician to be not able to separate the issue or for a representative to suggest an unnecessary purchases. Getting in touch with a contending cooling and heating company can save money and time and regret.
I FINALLY BOUGHT MY DREAM WRENCHES!! Yes, thats a thing.
Frequently Asked Questions:
Rankine Cycle Problems (Still)?
My Company (Start Up) Has Built A 5 Hp Rankine Cycle Generator With A Thermal Efficiency Of About 33%, It Works Fantastic In An Open Cycle, However 6 Engineers And Many Pump Specialists Later, And I Am Still At A Loss...
My System Uses R-134A As A Working Fluid, And I Am Looking For A Pump That Is Relatively Inexpensive That Can Pump Liquid Refrigerant (A Very Low Viscosity Fluid) At 125 Psi With A Variable Flow Rate Depending On The Btu Output Of The Fuel I Chose To Burn, Which Can Vary...
The Problem Is, I Cannot Find A Feed Pump That Can Prevent Slugging Out Of The Turbine...The Turbine Itself Cost $350.00 To Build, But I Cannot Find A Pump Small Enough Within The 350 Dollar Price Range, I Have Looked At
1. Double Acting Piston Pumps: Usually Are Too High Pressure For My Application (2000 Psi+)
2. Variable Displacement, Pressure Compensated Vane Pumps: Cannot Tolerate Low Viscosity Fluids
3. Pressure Compensated Piston Pumps: Also Not Low Viscosity Tolerant, Expensive, And Power Demanding
4. 3:1 Pneumatic Diaphragm Pumps: Not Truly Independent Pressure And Flow, And How Would I Drive It? Pneumatic Line From The Boiler To The Condenser Side? I Think I Would Need A Secondary Pump At That Point
5. Variable Displacement, Pressure Compensated Gear Pumps: Longevity And Viscosity Intolerant Below 70Ssu
6. Sliding Vane Pumps: Perfect In Every Way For My Application Longevity, Efficiency, Control Of Flow Rate And Pressure Independent Of Each Other And Can Pump Low Viscosity Fluids Like R-134A. However, The Pump In My Pressure And Flow Rate Range Is $2500.00! More Expensive Than The Entire System Boiler And All!
I Want The Pump To Start Up And Maintain The Pressure Differential While The Turbine Spools Up To Speed, After Which, I Would Like The Feed Pump To Be Run Off Of The Turbine Via A Belt And Later A Drive Shaft. My Pressure Differential Is 125 Psi And My Flow Rate For The R-134A As A Gas Is Approx. 50L/Min.
I Used An Air Compressor Pump In A Hermetically Sealed Container, The Pump Is Supposed To Have A Max Pressure Output Of 250 Psi, But As Soon As The Pressure Is Equalized On Both Sides Of The Turbine, The Pressure On The Low Side Is Too Great And The Piston Pump Stops Working Until I Depressurize The Condenser Coil (Low Side Heat Exchanger), I'M At Only 80 Psi So It'S Not Even Pumping Liquid Yet And It Is Already Starting To Seize! I Am Sure I Need A More Powerful Motor To Drive The Pump But I Do Not Think That Is The Whole Story. Does Anyone Know The Answer?
Also, I Am Almost Positive That This Pump Will Not Work For A Liquid, But Is There A Way To Modify It? I Have A Large External One Way Valve, Should I Remove The Bash Valve In The Cylinder Head And Upgrade The Electric Motor? I Would Like To Use This Pump If I Can Because It Has My Flow Rate And It Only Cost $8.00. But If Not, What Pump Would Work?
Your answer is going to be in the properties of r-134a.
Get good thermodynamic charts.
Find something about the seals and r-134a.
Portable refrigerators for RVs and Aircraft that use r-134a will point you to pumps with a small and lightweight design goal. Which size of pumps seem to be the cheapest?
Would used/reconditioned be something that could be used in your product?
Is There Any Company Which Builds A Solar Powered Air Conditioning / Refrigeration System?
A quick google search found the SolaCool evaporative system (link below) but an evaporative system isn't always viable in a very humid climate. Essentially, any a/c system is "solar powered" if you have a photovoltaic system installed in your home. In effect, solar power works best at the time of day when you most need a/c.
With net metering you don't need a bank of batteries to benefit from solar power.
The best solution is to design the architecture of a building to use natural convection currents caused by sunshine, but most existing homes are not that way. I have seen some great designs in Arizona that do this.
Is Central Air Always Heat And Cool?
Think of it like this......Maybe your current heating source is a boiler, either steam or hot water. This will provide heat via pipes and radiators. If you want to air condition your house, a contractor will have to install a seperate system which consists of the condenser (outside unit) and evaperator. (indoor unit). The indoor unit can be either ducted, in which case the evaperator will be part of an air handler which will blow the air through ductwork you need installed, or else ductless such as the case with a Mitsubishi mr. slim unit.
The contractor may install a seperate T-stat to control cooling only or he may upgrade your t-stat to control both heat and cool from the same t-stat.
If you have forced hot air for your heating system, you need to add an evaperator in the plenum (above or below the furnace)(depends upon upflow or downflow applications) and have a condenser and controls installed.
Same options as T-stat listed above.
If you are speaking in terms of a commercial industrial set-up, then you have options such as a 2 pipe or 4 pipe system. A 2 pipe system can only perform heating or cooling and requires a manual changeover, the 4 pipe system is capable of running both at the same time.
I hope this helps!
Where Can I Find A Heating/ Air Conditioning Unit That Is 4 Tons And Has 16 Seer For Under $2,500?
I Had Found A 4 Ton 16 Seer Hvac Heating And Air Conditioning Unit Online That Was Less Than $2000, But My Younger Sister Closed The Tab On It And I Didn'T Bookmark It (My Mistake). Now, I'M Trying To Find It Again, But Am Unable To And I'M Getting Really Mad. Please Help Me! I Need The Help...
On line is no place to find an air conditioner.
You do realize that the seller/installer is responsible for the labor warranty and if you buy it elsewhere and have someone else install it they will not cover the labor warranty since they did not sell it.
Most companies will not install something they did not sell.
Why give money to a company that sells on line only to find out if there are problems later you are on your own.
Maintenance Instructions To Replace 2000 Honda Odyssey Cabin Air Conditioning Filter?
Can Anyone Provide Instructions Or Lead Me To An Internet Site That Describes How To Replace A 2000 Honda Odyssey Cabin Air Conditioning Filter?
Most cars take in fresh air through vents or openings that are usually located under the hood at the rear of the compartment near where the windshield wipers are. It's the place where every leaf in the county gets stuck in the fall...can't miss it. There should be a cover over the filter that unscrews or snaps out to gain access the filter element. This information should be in your vehicle operators manual also. If you don't have the manual, go to the parts store and tell them what you need and they might be able to pull up a diagram. If all else fails, head to the Honda dealer service department, ask them to pull up the diagram and have them print it off for you. Good luck