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Our Technicians Are Factory Trained To Provide Quality Miami Air Conditioning and Heating Repair Services!
Miami Air Conditioning Repairis your one-stop for all your home or business comfort solutions, which includes Air Conditioning and Heating service, repairs, sales of new installations as well as home energy audits. For almost 40 years, we have been serving the south Florida area. We are unlike other HVAC contractors in that we take a “whole house” approach to comfort diagnostics and deliver these results at an affordable price which will not break your budget.
Why Call Miami Air Conditioning Repair?
At Miami Air Conditioning Repair, we strive to provide the best customer service in the industry so you are completely satisfied with your repair. Our professional team is trained in all brands and models of HVAC systems for residential and commercial properties. We take the worry out of your emergency. Our staff has worked on practically every type of air conditioning and heating systems. Stop wasting time by calling around to see who can repair your air conditioner, heater or water heater. Save time and energy by calling us now. We’ll dispatch a friendly and qualified repair technician to your home or business and your heating or cooling system will be operational in an affordable and quick time frame!
Some Of The Repair Services We Offer In Miami FL:
- Air Conditioning Repair
- Air Conditioning Tune-ups
- Air Conditioning Installation
- Air Conditioning Replacements
- Heating System Repair
- Heating System Tune-ups
- Heating System Installations
- Split System Air Conditioning Units
- Emergency AC Repair & Service
- Second Opinions On Major Repairs
- 2nd Opinions On System Replacement
Frequently Asked Questions
Which Is Cheaper, Running Central Air Conditioning On Fan Or Auto?
Auto if the A/C is in operation.
Fan usually is best for air circulation.
Running a fan continuous while A/C cycles consumes more energy.
Is There Any Way To Re-Route A Heating/Air Conditioning Vent To Another Place Without Cutting Into The Wall?
I Have A Vent Right Where I Want To Put My Bed And Was Wondering If There Is Any Atatcthment To Put On It With A Tube Or Something So The Air Comes Out Somewhere Else In The Room Not Right Onto My Bed
I've done this, or helped others to do this on a few occasions... this is often the case when they live in a rental apartment or house, and do not wish to make a 'permanent' alteration to the ductwork.
Ok... first lets determine what kind of vent you have (your description is a bit vauge).
this one http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pr... is actually a vent that attaches to ductwork run through the floor - the design is such that it helps to angle the air out into the middle of the room better, than this type of vent,which sets on the floor, and just blows air right up the wall - http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pr...
Most vents like these two mentioned run in size, anywhere from 2"x12" to 3" x 9", to 4" x 10". Its important to note the 'flush mount vents' like the second link, are often used on ceilings too.
(ignore the colors of the vents, as you can literally get any vent in any color these days)
Wall vents, especially air returns, tend to be somewhat larger, and are often just a grill, with no additional deflectors inside them to direct the air movement - much like these - http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pr...
One like this, though - is a vent which blows air INTO a room, and can often be found along the upper portion of a wall, or on the ceiling - http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=pr...
Ok... with that done, you should be able to tell us which type of vent you've got.
If this is an air intake vent, the air is flowing INTO the vent, not out of it. You could disguise it if you want, by placing some artwork over it, for example, or if your bed headbaord sets higher than it, then simply leave a little space beteen the headboard, and the vent - 3/4" to 1" would be sufficient. If you don't have a head board, or the vent is located above it, you can create either a headboard, or a piece of art work to cover it. You just need to make it so that the piece sets off the wall by about an inch, and that at least one edge of the framing that is holding the piece off the wall is open along at least one edge, top, bottom, etc. The artwork could be a piece of painted drywall, or canvase... anything really, that can be held off direct contact with the wall itself, perhaps by small cleats, or even washers, on the lag bolst, to create a space behind the piece.
Now - if this is an actual heating/air vent bringing air into the room, you've got a bit more to deal with, as anything you make to take the air to another location, needs to be able to withstand the temperature, and possibly humidity content of the air. If the vent is located at the floor, like either of the first two links I've shown, you've got some options.
First option, and least 'elegant', is to use a piece of flexible, or stiff, vent ductwork, with a 'boot', at either end. You would remove the existing vent, attach the new boot over the existing one, and run the duct work off to where you want it, and attach the second boot, to wich you would apply a new vent cover. This is a fairly cheap, handy way to divert the air to a new location, if the new duct is going to be run behind furniture for example. Screw the first boot over the existing boot at the wall, and seal it with metal tape. It would be best if the new boot is at least the same size, or slightly larger than the one in the floor, or wall. Note - you can get boots that vent from the center, or the end, so pick one according to which direction you want to run the 'extension'. This type of arrangement could be made if you simply want to run the extension out under the bed a bit, and then off the edge of the bed (I'd make a 'T' assembly, and let it run the air out to either side of the bed - set your shoes/boots in front of the bed, and they'd be warm and ready for you to put on a cold morning too! hehehe.
A more elegant method, and this would take a bit more construction, provided the vent is at the floor level (though it could be adapted if it is slightly higher), would be to create a platform for the bed, with a duct chamber built into it. The air could be dircted to either side of the bed platform, or even to the foot of the bed. The platform could be made of 2x4 lumber, and plywood, or larger, depending on how tall you want it. I'd run actual ductwork inside it, or create it with additional pieces of drywall, plywood, melamine, or some other material. Seal the joints with metal tape.
Ok, at my text limit here - email me with a pic of your vent, and I can easily help you design a solution.
1900S Air Conditioning(In The Early 1900S)?
How Much Did An Early 1900S Air Conditioning Cost, Father Said Around $10.00, But Just Want To Make Sure.
Also, Where Were They Usually Sold? Convenience Stores, Markets?
Need An Answer Fast Before Tomorrow Please!
The concept of air conditioning is known to have been applied in Ancient Rome, where aqueduct water was circulated through the walls of certain houses to cool them. Similar techniques in medieval Persia involved the use of cisterns and wind towers to cool buildings during the hot season. Modern air conditioning emerged from advances in chemistry during the 19th century, and the first large-scale electrical air conditioning was invented and used in 1902 by Willis Haviland Carrier.
In 1939 air conditioning was offered as an option in a Packard automobile Air conditioning offered as an option for $274.
Henry Galson revolutionized the market with his low cost window unit designs for the average home owner in the 1947. His engineering allowed the cost of air conditioners to come down to the $25 to $50 range.
Air conditioners were sold at the same stores where appliances like fridges and stoves were sold.
Where Does Air Conditioning Fluid Go In The Car?
My Husband Recently Passed Away And Now I Have To Take Care Of The Car.
Most auto parts stores sell a prepackaged kit with a bottle and hose. There are two caps on the A/C lines. ONe is marked H and one L for high and low side. They are different sizes and the recharge bottle will only fit on the low side. It's a simple procedure and can be done by the average car owner.
We Need A New Central Air Conditioning Unit. Which Are Best?
Not Concerning Bt Us. Which Are Some Of The Top Names In Central-Air-Conditioning? I Appreciate The Help. Thanks, Artie J.
Trane and Lennox run the most, but all units use pretty much the same parts, example the compresor is made by copeland, motors by GE, and so on. When looking at a new unit stay away from the brand name and concetrate primarily on these things
1. The contractor installing the unit, given you may find the same unit for cheaper with a different contractor, but if the system is installed incorrctly it will not run at its proper efficiency and you may run into problems down the road if the refrigeration side isn't done right, ex - premature compressor breakdown, failed txv.
2. The SEER rating and in my opinion the EER rating
3. Extended warranty
so my advice do a better buisness bereau search for a creditable contractor and find a SEER rating thats in your price range, every increase in SEER rating will result in a 7% more efficient unit in cooling, sometimes the payoff isn't there by spending big money on a high efficiency unit. Thats a decision you'll have to make. Back to your original question, if it was my house I would look to put in a 15 SEER Rheem unit. Maybe I like Rheem because they're easy to work on or because they're not priced on the high side, but typically I work on every brand name broken unit just as often as any other, and trust me its not more difficult to stop a trane than it is any other unit
Miami Air Conditioning Repair
151 NW 5th St
Miami, FL 33128
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