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Our Technicians Are Factory Trained To Provide Quality Miami Air Conditioning and Heating Repair Services!
Miami Air Conditioning Repairis your one-stop for all your home or business comfort solutions, which includes Air Conditioning and Heating service, repairs, sales of new installations as well as home energy audits. For almost 40 years, we have been serving the south Florida area. We are unlike other HVAC contractors in that we take a “whole house” approach to comfort diagnostics and deliver these results at an affordable price which will not break your budget.
Why Call Miami Air Conditioning Repair?
At Miami Air Conditioning Repair, we strive to provide the best customer service in the industry so you are completely satisfied with your repair. Our professional team is trained in all brands and models of HVAC systems for residential and commercial properties. We take the worry out of your emergency. Our staff has worked on practically every type of air conditioning and heating systems. Stop wasting time by calling around to see who can repair your air conditioner, heater or water heater. Save time and energy by calling us now. We’ll dispatch a friendly and qualified repair technician to your home or business and your heating or cooling system will be operational in an affordable and quick time frame!
Some Of The Repair Services We Offer In Miami FL:
- Air Conditioning Repair
- Air Conditioning Tune-ups
- Air Conditioning Installation
- Air Conditioning Replacements
- Heating System Repair
- Heating System Tune-ups
- Heating System Installations
- Split System Air Conditioning Units
- Emergency AC Repair & Service
- Second Opinions On Major Repairs
- 2nd Opinions On System Replacement
Frequently Asked Questions
How Do You Fix A Carrier Central Air Conditioning Unit Where The Outside Fan Siezed Up, But Now Works?
The Outside Fan Siezed Up, But After Giving It A Few Spins By Hand, It Now Seems To Be Working Fine. The Compresor Continue To Be On When The Fan Siezed Up. I Checked The Furnace And The Small Copper Pipe Was Extremely Hot. No Water Was Coming Out Of The Evaporater As Well. After Giving The Fan A Few Spins, Everything Seems To Be Working Fine. Small Copper Pipe Not Hot. Water Coming From The Evaparator.. I Was Thinking That I Should Oil The Fan Motor, But I Can'T Find Any Holes In The Motor To Do So. Can I Still Oil The Motor If It Does Not Have Any Oil Holes. What Do You Think Happened With The Fan Siezing Up. It Was On For Over 24 Hours Straight Before The Fan Siezed Up. Please Provide Me As Much Information As Possible. I Am Concerned That The Fan Will Siezed Up Again And Ruin My Compressor Or Does The Fan Have Nothing To Do With The Cooling The Compressor..
The fan has EVERYTHING to do with cooling the compressor. You desperately need a new one.
You gave it a spin and it fired up? It could be something as simple as a bad capacitor.
This is just me, but I'd go ahead and replace the entire motor and capacitor straightaway, and not mess about with any further testing. Get it done now and don't wonder whether the motor is going to fail on a weekend. Replacing the fan motor is actually really straightforward, just get all the relevant model and serial numbers off the side of the AC unit, and off the motor, and start calling around. Be ready for a bill of a couple hundred bucks, but that's cheaper than calling a tech out only to hear him tell you it's going to be a few days.
Good luck with it
Where Is The Heating Coil Located On My 1991 Cadillac Coupdeville?
My Cadillac Is Leaking Coolant Into The Passenger Seat Of The Car When I Cut The Ac On Vapors Come Out!
The heater coil is located in the heater/air-condition box under dash on the passage side. In the box it is located behind A/C coil. If you are going to do it yourself. Go to the library and read the repair manual. On some you can pull out the glove box and be able see better. A/C coil can be damage. T
Help Required With Air-Conditioning!?
Can Someone Plz Give Me An Idea As To What Is Meant By 'Ton' As In A 1.5Ton Or 2 Ton Ac? How Does It Tell U The Cooling Power, Or At What Rate It Can Cool?
I'M Presently Trying To Re-Innovate My Bedroom, Which Has A Size Of 20Feet X 12Ft X 10Ft. What 'Ton' Ac Is Sufficient To Cool It At A Decent Rate In The Peak Of Summer (45Deg C External Temperature To Say About 20C)?
Also Why Are Split-Type Acs Preferred Nowadays Compared To The Older Window-Type Ones? What Are The Pros And Cons Of The Two Types?
It Would Also Be Really Nice If U Could Suggest To Me The Best Consumer Electronics Brands Manufacturing Acs That Suit My Above Purpose. I'M Looking For:
-- Feature-Rich 'Intelligent' Acs
-- Energy Efficiency (Shouldn'T Consume Too Much Electricity)
Price Is Not A Bar Or A Consideration For Me.
The unit "ton" is used in refrigeration and air-conditioning to measure heat absorption. Prior to the introduction of mechanical refrigeration, cooling was accomplished by delivering ice. Installing one ton of refrigeration replaced the daily delivery of one ton of ice. A ton of refrigeration in the United States is equal to 12000 BTU per hour, or about 3517 Watts. It is approximately the power required to cool 1 ton (2000 pounds) of water by 1° F every 10 minutes.
It is important to properly size the air conditioning system. On the one hand, the system must be capable of attaining a comfortable temperature when the outside temperature is at a peak. On the other hand, a system that is oversized will not only be more expensive to install and require a higher amperage electrical connection, but will result in poorer air circulation because the blower will not have to run as long. In fact, you may experience more frequent on/off cycling with an oversized system.
In the old days, the HVAC technician would size the air conditioning system based upon the square footage of the house. Each 500 square feet would require a 1 ton capacity or so. But it was eventually recognized that there were a number of variables that needed to be taken into account, including individual room sizes and orientation (in the sun or the shade), insulation, window size, exterior and interior temperatures, humidity, and much more.
A number of analysis programs have been developed for the PC. One program, HVAC-Calc, can be purchased for $39, which will allow you to analyze one house:
Another program is J-Works, which I used five years ago prior to replacing my central air conditioning system. I forget the details of my analysis, other than determining that my system was properly sized at 4 tons. J-Works allows you to perform an analysis for evaluation purposes prior to purchase:
A split system, that is, central air, allows you to cool the entire house rather than a localized area in front of a window-mounted unit. It is also quieter, has greater capacity, and is probably more efficient.
There are many quality manufacturers of air conditioner systems. Mine was made by Bryant, who has a web site that is informative:
Why Is One Air Conditioning Zone Getting Power And The Other Is Not?
I Have 2 Nest Thermostats With Internal Rechargeable Batteries. One Downstairs And One Upstairs. The Honeywell Zone Controller In The Basement Cools The Downstairs Just Fine But Struggles With The Upstairs And Constantly Clicks And The Purge Light Turns On. Also, The Upstairs Nest Thermostat Has Battery Issues. If I Unplug The Thermostat For Just A Few Seconds It Turns Off And Then When I Plug It Back In It Takes 15-20 Minutes To Get Enough Power To Turn Back On. I'Ve Switched The Downstairs And Upstairs Thermostats And The Issue Appears To Be Isolated To The Wiring And Power Upstairs. I'M Not Sure What'S Wrong. Any Insight?
The same thing was happening at my house and we put new batteries on the object that controls the temperature.If not you probably need to look at the tubes that are connected to the big air conditioner and if something is not connected of ripped you need to replace the lines
Air Conditioning Unit Alternative?
Just Got A Quote For $8,000.00 For A New Unit. We Rarely Use Air Conditioning And Hate To Make That Huge Investment As We Plan To Stay In Our Home. Have Seen Room Size Air Conditioning Units At Costco And Thought About Investing In A Couple Of Them For The Summer. How Efficient Are They And Do They Make Much Noise? We Use Our Wood Burning Stove For Heat In The Winter Exclusively.
Portable ACs are a pain. They are noisy, require a way for you to vent the condenser discharge air as well as requiring you to dump the condensate every few hours. They also take up a good bit of floor space. They are more suited for commercial type applications and not really for a residence (in my opinion, I'm sure their marketers will tell you differently) Also, they aren't really more efficient than split systems. In reality, split systems, tonnage to tonnage, can be exponentially more efficient than portable units and window units.
Window units should only be used to cool a single space (room) that is within it's BTU rating to cool. They work well when used in this fashion. However, when you start trying to cool multiple rooms you have to add more window units, and after you get to about 3 of them, you are using more electricity than a normal split system, and wouldn't be cooling the house near as effectively.
My question to you is, have you had more than one company give you a quote? 8,000 isn't necessarily an outrageous figure, especially if this install is a difficult one, but that is a bit high. The average is around 6,000.
If you were just dead set on not going with the split to avoid the up front cost, I would suggest either PTAC or mini-split ductless. You'll still be spending 2-3,000, but they are way more efficient than something like a portable or window unit.
Miami Air Conditioning Repair
151 NW 5th St
Miami, FL 33128
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