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You can ask any business to provide proof of general liability contractor insurance. Any company that is not happy to offer proof of general liability (GL) insurance should be avoided. A minimum standard for GL insurance coverage is $1 million for domestic work and $2 million for light commercial.

There are other methods for looking into a/c, heating and ventilation business such as: contact your regional Better Business Bereau (BBB), perform online searches and reviews and ask the business in concern for recommendations. However, all these approaches fall brief of comprehensive openness. The BBB really works for the business it represents as they are only ranked if the company in question pays them a recurring cost. Online evaluation sites rarely show all the reviews received, and post reviews from sources that are not always reliable. This supplies a platform for companies to post their own reviews and people to hastily post evaluations without the company in concern's capability to professionally resolve the concern. Moreover, no business would offer a negative referral; just those that are exceptionally favorable. None of these are ideal characteristics for consumers looking for completely objective evaluations and recommendations. It is recommended to utilize these techniques as an informed customer and think about the information source for exactly what it is worth.

One of the very best methods to find a new air conditioning, heating and ventilation contractor is by means of the "word-of-mouth" method. If the business recommended was inexpensive, professional and reputable for a pal or family member, there is a great chance that business will do the exact same for you. Excellent companies use the word-of-mouth technique to continually provide a new client stream by keeping their consumers happy.

Other standard approaches for finding a new a/c, heating and ventilation contractor include carrying out online searches, phonebook directories or online directories and other ad mediums. Remember that of these approaches are purchased and spent for by the companies in concern. None of these methods should work as a testimonial and ought to be used just as finding sources.

3rd party providers such as Angie's list, Find Local and other online business are the newest platforms for sourcing and rating a/c, heating and ventilating companies. Although these companies do offer a service with some merit, they are, in fact, adding expense to the customer. Angie's List, in addition to some other online organisation directories, charge the client straight for their scores and business' contact details. Other third-party websites provide consumers with a/c, heating and ventilation business and include the cost of being a middle-man to business formula. Bear in mind that none of these are "free" which consumers should understand the expense and worth of utilizing entities like these.

Numerous quotes are advise when hiring a cooling and heating professional. There are no industry standards for rates HVAC associated product or service. Similar jobs can vary countless dollars from one business to the next. A minimum of three price quotes is advised prior to the repair or replacement of any major a/c and or heating unit component and prior to the design and installation of brand-new systems.

A second opinion can be of worth if the repair or replacement is costly. Not all service technicians or companies are equal or trusted. Fixing cooling and heater is extremely complicated. It is not uncommon for a repair professional to be not able to separate the issue or for an agent to suggest an unneeded purchases. Getting in touch with a competing air conditioning and heating business can save money and time and remorse.

Give a warm welcome to Duke on the board repair forum!

Frequently Asked Questions:

I Have A 99 Jeep Cherokee And I Just Noticed Smoke Coming Frm The Vents Doesnt Smell Like Anything Though?
There'S Smoke Coming From My Vents While I Drive But I'Ve Never Turned On The Heater In A Long Time & I Have No Air Conditioning It Doesn'T Smell Like Anything What Could It Be!?

Um You might want to pull over or get to a gas station and find out. It could be overheating. Let it cool and check all your fluids. Oil, Antifreeze etc. Also you don't want to keep driving with it filling up with smoke or on fire- both could have deadly results.

Radiant Heat Floors? Are They Any Good?
Our Builder Is Suggesting Radiant Heat Floors And I Think Though I'D Like The Warm Floors; If We Have A Problem With It, We Would Have To Tear Up Tile Floors. Anybody Had Experience With This?

All righty then - I'm an installer here in Canada and can positively say that the main issue in service for radiant floor heating lies within the peripferal equipment and not the PEX (infloor) tubing itself. The PEX tubing is polymeric and all manufacturers have at least a 25 year warranty on their tubing. So most service, years after installation, is either with the pumps or boilers, which should be readilly accessable in the basement or mechanical closet.
While radiant floor heating does tend to keep floors 'warm', the main objective is to heat the floor mass, which is large, which in turn radiates out to the home. If the heat loss in your home is very small, (i.e. - ultra efficient design and build), the heat input to replace the heat loss may be small enough that a 'warm' floor may not be noticed.
You can put ANY floor covering over radiant, even wood, although there are parameters, which need to be met. Also - you need to humidify your home, regardless of what type of heating you have so as not to dry out your hardwood floors or furniture. It's a bit more imperative with hardwood over radiant.
If you can, try to get the tubing into a floor pour, or at least over the subfloor. Staple-up works, but by far is the least efficient way to use this system.
Please - please - please get a pro to do this work. Not your GC, not his brother-in-law, not your uncle Fred - and typically, not an air conditioning contractor. You need someone who understands the nuances of this type of heating and how it should be installed specific to your situation.

Best of luck

How Can I Capture Excess Heat From A Gas-Fired Furnace?
I Am Renting A Basement Apartment And I Am Looking For Ways To Keep It Warm This Winter. Right Now I Rely Completely On A Space Heater And Three Baseboard Heaters (All Electric And All Very Expensive To Run). There Is A Gas Furnace Located Inside A Utility Closet In My Bedroom, Which Is Part Of The Central Air System For The Residents Who Live Above Me. I Noticed That This Furnace Gives Off A Significant Amount Of Excess Heat. I Try To Keep The Closet Door Open So That Some Of That Heat Will Drift Into My Apartment But I Am Wondering How I Can Better Take Advantage Of This Free Heat Source (I Don'T Pay For The Gas That Is Used To Run It Since The Furnace Doesn'T Heat The Basement). At First I Considered Placing A Fan In Or Near The Closet To Extract Some Of The Excess Heat But I'M Worried About Pumping Furnace Exhaust Into My Place (There Is A Carbon Monoxide Detector Inside The Closet). I Also Thought Of Just Putting Some Large Water Jugs Or Containers That Will Absorb Whatever Heat Doesn'T Get Pumped To The Floor Above. I, Of Course, Can'T Install Any Kind Of Heat Recovery Device Since I Am Only A Renter. Does Anyone Have Any Creative Suggestions?

Any attempts to modify an existing gas furnace system that was not designed for heat recovery will result in either or both of the two conditions: [1] substandard heating temperature and/or air flow in the areas served, and/or [2] a condensing of the flue gas which will destroy the system and venting system. I don't think there is an effective and more importantly safe way to do this without compromising safety of you and the other residents or severely impacting the performance of the existing system. Having them duct you a supply and return vent would probably be best, but again they will lose performance upstairs unless modifications are made to the existing unit (unless it is oversized to begin with). Sorry for the bad news, but a few degrees of heat is not worth creating an unsafe condition for you or the people above. Your idea of thermal mass is good though, although I wouldn't use water jugs due to plastic fire hazard. Large, heavy metal objects placed in front of your electric heaters will absorb heat and continue to stay warm when the heaters have cycled off. Good luck,

What Is The Ampere Rating Of Circuit Breakers For A 3 Tonner Split Type Air Conditioning Unit? And Wire Size?

Tonnage has nothing to do with it. What make, brand, model. All the information you need is typcially on the side of the unit. Whether it is 110 (not likely), 220 or 3phase. Need specifics.

God Bless

What Are Views On Folding Campers / Trailor Tents?
We Have Three Small Children And Want To Camp In Comfort - We Have Seen A Trailor Tent For A Very Good Proce On Ebay - What Are Your Views? I Want To Go Away For 3-4 Weeks And Cannot Bear The Thought Of Staying In A Normal Tent For That Time, And Cannot Afford A Hotel...

Pop-up campers are ideal for families with small children. Most are light enough to be easily towed behind a 6-cylinder vehicle without a huge sacrifice in fuel economy. Unlike motorized RV's, a pop-up does not need separate liability insurance or expensive maintenance (though inexpensive RV insurance is advisable on newer units that still have good value).

One big advantage of a pop-up versus tent camping is your camper can be cleaned and re-stocked after each trip so you just need to add perishable foods and clothing to head out on your next adventure. There is enough storage space to keep all of your gear permanently inside the camper, either in the cabinets or in storage bins on the floor. So you don't need to shoe-horn your tent, sleeping bags, cooking gear, food and clothing in the car with the family, making the driving portion of your trip more comfortable and enjoyable.

The other big advantage is the additional comfort and protection. Thick foam mattresses and heavy canvas tent material, combined with the solid roof, floor and partial walls of the main body, offer additional insulation, weather protection and security versus a tent. You can choose a model that has a propane furnace to safely heat your camper in cold weather, and fans or even air conditioning to keep cool in the summer.

Most pop-ups have a galley with a sink, fresh water supply, and a propane stove that can be used inside or outside. They carry one or two 20Lb propane tanks externally so you don't have to deal with disposable propane canisters (you might need adapters and extra hose if you want to use a gas BBQ grill). There is a 12V battery to run lights and small appliances when no AC electrical hook-ups are available, but you also have the option to hook-up to "shore power" to run your air conditioner (if equipped or added), microwave oven (again, if equipped or added) or other higher-power devices. Small 3-way refrigerators are common in larger pop-ups.

Some things to consider when choosing a pop-up:

1. Where will everyone sleep?
_ a.) Small kids can share a bed, 3 small kids fit on a king-size mattress.
_ b.) The dinette folds into a bed, but only 48" wide, so sharing is "intimate."
_ c.) The dinette might be too short for a single teen/adult. Check before you buy.
_ d.) Older boys don't like sharing beds. Make sure you have sleeping options.
_ e.) Kids like to invite relatives and friends. Complicates all the above.
_ f.) An add-a-room and some cots can provide additional sleeping options.

2. Bathroom or not?
We never had a bathroom in our pop-ups and didn't miss it. Worst case is you setup a chemical toilet and shower bag in a privacy shelter outside, but mostly we relied on the campground facilities for toilet and shower needs. Our hybrid camper (a full-box travel trailer with fold-out bed ends) has a small bathroom, which we use when dry camping, but we prefer to use the campground facilities when available to avoid adding humidity or smell to the camper. No built-in bathroom also eliminates the most hated of RV chores: dealing with the sewer line and holding tanks.

3. Water heater or not?
Even without an inside bathroom or nearby facilities, a quick hot shower is a welcome luxury. When dry camping it is much preferred to bag showers, and at a full-service campground it makes quick clean-ups after swimming more convenient. The only disadvantage is a shower will use up water quickly when dry camping, and takes-up storage space.

4. Air conditioner or not?
They often ice-up and stop working when you want them the most, particularly in a pop-up camper that's not as well insulated as a full-box travel trailer or motorized RV. The A/C requires an electrical hook-up or a minimum 3500-watt generator. A/C is noisy and a generator makes things worse. We found that even in the desert during summer, once we acclimated to the temperatures, nights were comfortable with only fans. But in hot and humid, A/C might be desirable.

5. Awnings
One awning is highly recommended. Two is even better. We rarely ate or just hung-out inside our campers, even with the large hybrid, even in the rain and cold weather. With our last pop-up we had one awning on each side. The "front" awning was used as our hang-out area, sometimes with an add-a-room to keep out the bugs. The "back" awning was where we setup our kitchen and dining area.

6. Storage
An outside storage trunk is a great feature. Just remember to unload it before extending the front bed slide. Some pop-ups have a slide-out drawer that can be accessed when the bed is extended, but this cuts down on storage capacity and doesn't allow large items. Use stacking storage bins to storage space; small in cabinets, large to stack on the floor during transit.

Always buy used. Most people use their camper 2 or 3 times a year, so even a 10 year old camper - if well maintained - can be in great condition at huge savings.

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