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You can ask any company to supply proof of basic liability contractor insurance. Any company that is not ready to offer proof of general liability (GL) insurance coverage should be avoided. A minimum basic for GL insurance is $1 million for residential work and $2 million for light commercial.

There are other techniques for looking into cooling, heating and ventilation business such as: contact your regional Better Business Bereau (BBB), perform online searches and evaluations and ask the company in concern for referrals. However, all of these methods disappoint detailed openness. The BBB actually works for the business it represents as they are just ranked if the business in question pays them a repeating cost. Online evaluation websites seldom show all of the evaluations got, and post reviews from sources that are not constantly credible. This provides a platform for business to post their own evaluations and individuals to hastily post reviews without the company in concern's capability to professionally deal with the concern. Furthermore, no business would provide a negative reference; only those that are incredibly positive. None of these are ideal characteristics for consumers seeking totally unbiased evaluations and references. It is encouraged to use these techniques as an informed consumer and think about the details source for exactly what it deserves.

Among the very best methods to discover a new cooling, heating and ventilation specialist is through the "word-of-mouth" approach. If the company advised was cost effective, expert and trusted for a good friend or relative, there is a likelihood that business will do the very same for you. Excellent companies utilize the word-of-mouth method to constantly supply a brand-new customer stream by keeping their consumers happy.

Other conventional techniques for finding a new a/c, heating and ventilation contractor include carrying out online searches, phone book directory sites or online directory sites and other advertisement mediums. Remember that of these techniques are bought and spent for by the business in concern. None of these techniques need to work as a review and needs to be used only as finding sources.

3rd party service providers such as Angie's list, Find Local and other online companies are the newest platforms for sourcing and rating cooling, heating and ventilating companies. Although these companies do offer a service with some benefit, they are, in truth, including cost to the customer. Angie's List, along with some other online service directory sites, charge the client straight for their ratings and business' contact information. Other third-party sites provide consumers with cooling, heating and ventilation business and add the expense of being a middle-man to business formula. Keep in mind that none of these are "totally free" and that consumers must comprehend the cost and value of using entities like these.

Numerous price quotes are recommend when hiring an a/c and heating contractor. There are no market requirements for prices A/C associated product or service. Comparable tasks can differ countless dollars from one company to the next. A minimum of three price quotes is suggested prior to the repair work or replacement of any significant a/c and or heater part and prior to the design and installation of new systems.

A consultation can be of value if the repair or replacement is pricey. Not all specialists or business are equal or trusted. Repairing a/c and heating systems is incredibly intricate. It is not uncommon for a repair work technician to be not able to separate the problem or for a representative to advise an unnecessary purchases. Calling a contending air conditioning and heating business can conserve money and time and remorse.

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Frequently Asked Questions:

How Do I Add Central Air Conditioning To A 100 Years Old House?
My House Is 100 Years Old And Has Forced Hot Air Heat. The Gas Furnace Is A 90% Efficiency And 5 Years Old. I Have A 7 Years Old Central Air Condition System That Is Used But In Very Good Shape. Does Anyone Know If I Can Somehow Combine The Two. I Am Very Cost Conscious, So I Would Like To Do It Myself. Please Off Any And All Suggestions. Thank You

I would suggest a window unit so as not to mess up the stately aspect of an old house that probably isn't insulated so to at least have one or two rooms comfortable ,like the bedroom, a window unit can be removed without unsightly damage to appearance to your home, and much cheaper in the long haul.

Thinking Of Buying A Home From 1968 With Radiant Heat...?
The Home Is Amazing. I Love Nearly Everything About It. There'S Two Things I Don'T Like Though. No Central Air And Has Radiant Ceiling Heat. My Question Is How Much Would It Cost To Get Rid Of The Radiant Heating And Install A More Modern Forced Air System? There Is No Duct Work Currently Installed, Therefore We Would Have To Install All The Duct Work And Add An A/C Unit. The House Is 1700 Sq Ft In Central Ohio. I'M Just Looking For A Ballpark Figure. The Cost Of Installing A Complete Heating System And Central Air.

A few things:

a) If you are thinking of traditional low-velocity ducted systems, that will be both extremely disruptive and expensive relative to the newer high-velocity ducted systems that are available today for both heating and cooling.
b) If you install such a system for cooling only, you will reduce the cost by not requiring the installation of a furnace in addition to the air-handler and outside compressor.
c) In terms of your personal comfort, radiant heat will make you feel warmer than forced air heat assuming proper installation. You will be heated by warm surfaces vs. air temperature - for an analogy, imagine the comfort of standing in front of a warm fire - and there will be far fewer drafts (convection currents from cold surfaces).

So, look up either "Flex-Duct" HVAC systems which are specifically designed as retro-fit systems for older, historic and those houses built without ducted systems originally. A link to one such system (of several) is below.

Consider the advantages of two separate systems vs. one single system, and make an informed decision.

As to cost: Without any sort of calculations or any sort of understanding of how the house is laid out and going strictly by rules-of-thumb:

a) 2.5 ton compressor/evaporator system, installed and tested ~$3,500
b) Air-Handler system, including controls: $1,400
c) Ducted supply, partial plenum-return: $250/room.

The above numbers are a bit on the high side for the equipment as this is a new installation and I am allowing for the installation of a pad on the exterior, wiring, controls, switchgear and similar, and some structural accomodations for the air-handler on the inside. As to the ductwork, that is a straight hip-shot - if this is a ranch house with a full-size attic, that price will be lower. If it is a three-story Victorian it could go higher. If multiple air-handlers are required, add yet more.

If you have the land - you might wish to investigate a geothermal heat-pump system as well.

Based on your additional information - a geothermal heat-pump may be an excellent option with the first-cost being little higher than a conventional system with the addition of a fuel-fired furnance. This will provide both heating and cooling reserving the electric radiant heat for extreme cold conditions.

And, one of the great virtues of the HP-miniduct system is that it may be installed without disturbing much of anything visible.

How Can I Get Rid Of The Smell Of Cat Urine In The Air?
I Have A Lazy Family And We Don'T Clean Our Cat'S Litter Box As Often As We Should (But We Will Now) It'S One Of Those Closed Litter Box'S With A Cat Door, Well The Smell Builds Up In It And Eventually It Gets Out And That'S When We Clean It. But Now The Smell Is All Over Most Of The Apartment And We Don'T Know How To Get Rid Of It. I'Ve Looked This Up But I Only Get Things On How To Clean Cat Urine From A Carpet Or Something But My Cat Only Pees In His Litter Box And The Smell Is In The Air, Not The Floor Or An Object. The Other Day My Best Friend Said I Smelled Like Cat Pee And Then Said It Was A Joke But I Got Really Scared So That'S Why I'M Asking This.

Epic Eli, I understand your concern. I agree that washing or spraying Febreze on all fabrics and washing the walls and floors will help a lot. Airing the place out is a necessity. Carpet deodorizing powder that you sprinkle on and vacuum up will also help.

That said, there are a lot of things that can contribute to a strong urine odor. First, is your cat neutered? Because cats that aren't neutered have the worst smelling urine in the world. If not, please get him neutered right away. Intact male cats usually spray foul-smelling urine to mark their territories. If you look closely at walls or furniture, you may see residue about a foot and a half up. I hope you're right that it's just the litter box, but I have doubts that a dirty litter box, while it would smell evil, could make you smell like cat pee. Here's a link to low cost spay/neuter:

http://www.spayusa.org

Pet stores sell black lights (some party and novelty stores also sell them). Cat urine shows up under black light. I really think you should invest in one and look around your apartment for cat urine. If the litter box is as bad as you say, your cat would be completely within his rights not to use it! Clean any urine spots you may find with an enzyme cleaner like Simple Solution or Nature's Miracle, sold at pet stores by the gallon.

http://www.amazon.com/Stink-Stink-Finder...

Obviously, the biggest problem is the litter box. Throw it out! Plastic is so porous that it has probably permanently absorbed the ammonia stink. The way to prevent ammonia odor from forming - and ammonia is very unhealthy for you and your family to be breathing - is to use scoopable litter and maintain it at a depth of about three inches. The urine will largely sit on the top, where you can scoop it out before ammonia odor forms. Also, from a labor standpoint, scooping a few things out with a scoop and throwing them into a plastic bag isn't nearly as much of a drag as having to change a filthy litter box, wash it out, etc. Scooping litter does track more, but if you buy a nice, BIG clear storage box from Walmart, it's deep enough that more of the litter will stay in. Buy a litter scoop and a bucket or two of Tidy Cats scoopable litter. Keep the bucket next to the box so that the cat can use it to get in and out of the deep litter box. I bought my litter box (storage container) for $9. It comes almost up to my knees, and my cats love it. It also keeps the cat from overshooting the edge of the box. You'll be able to see the condition of the box, rather than going into litter box denial. Really, it will take two minutes to scoop it every day.

An automatic litter box like a Litter Maid would be another option, but they are rather costly and a pain to clean.

Once you get the black light and you get the apartment freshened up and aired out, you will want to wash all the clothes hanging in your closet, as they will have absorbed this odor. Put a scoop of OxiClean powder (or Sun Oxygen cleaner, which they sell at Walmart) into the hot water as the machine fills. Then add detergent, then the clothes. I used to use this stuff to deodorize my ferret litter pan - it works like magic. Ask your friend to honestly tell you if you ever smell like cat pee again. I think the OxiClean will do the trick, but sometimes clothes do absorb odors permanently, so if he gives you the thumbs-down, throw out whatever you're wearing.

Good luck! I wish you and your family (and your kitty) the best.

How Much Is It Going To Cost To Put Central Air Conditioning In Condo? I Have Goodman Model #Gmp075-3 Furnace?
The Condo Has Windows Facing West And The Sqft Is 1224. Two Story. The Furnace Is A Goodman Model #Gmp075-3. Will I Also Need To Replace My Furnace?

You can leave the furnace in place. They will just add whats called a cased coil, line set and condensing unit (ac). Slight modification to the ductwork, no big deal.
You should have no issues at all using whats in place. In this case the evaporator coil is not inside the furnace. So when you purchase the new ac unit, they will add the cased coil. The cased coil contains the evaporator coil. This stand along box, either sits on top of the existing or bottom depending on air flow. If they try and tell you that the furnace wont work because A its too old B its not for R410A. Call another company. You should have no problems. I did one last summer for a couple. 8 year old gas furnace and put in a 5 ton R410A condensing unit. No problems at all.

Heating As Opposed To Air Conditioning?
My Local Mcdonalds Have Their Air Conditioning On All The While. Even When It Is Cold It Is Freezing In There, They Hardly Ever Use The Heating. I Sit In There Drinking My Tea And Have To Wear A Coat (I Do Eat The Food But It Is Very Very Rare) I Was Once Told When That It Costs Virtually The Same To Power An Air Conditioning Unit In These Places As Opposed To Switching On The Heating? Is There Any Truth In This? Thanks

Well, actually, "air conditioning" includes heating and cooling. We just use stupid children's terms, like calling zero the letter "o" when they are not the same (the letter 'o' on your cell phone is on the six key, what used to be the operator key is the zero key, so if you dial "two-oh-two area code" to reach Washington DC, you are actually dialing area code 262!).

In a food establishment and in some industrial buildings, it is important to maintain an air ambience. Sometimes it is part of the air purging system such as in a hospital or chemical factory, sometimes it is to maintain cleanliness as in a restaurant or fast food joint, and there are various other reasons.

So it could be that the air system of a particular building will continue to function whether the temperature needs to be cooler or warmer, or no change at all in temperature. If that is the case, there will be little difference in the cost of running a unit continuously.

However, sometimes air pressure is used to keep bugs or pollutants out of a building. Sometimes the temperature control system may only function if the building is not open to the outside directly for more than brief moments, and so there are no controls for heat and cold beyond the master control panel. Therefore, a constant temperature is maintained by keeping the building closed and continuously forcing temperature-controlled air into all rooms of the building at the same time. These are just a few examples of the engineering that goes into buildings, and no doubt, a heating and air conditioning professional can give a better explanation than my limited knowledge.

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