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You can ask any company to provide evidence of basic liability contractor insurance. Any business that is not going to offer evidence of basic liability (GL) insurance coverage must be prevented. A minimum standard for GL insurance coverage is $1 million for property work and $2 million for light industrial.
There are other methods for looking into a/c, heating and ventilation business such as: contact your local Better Business Bereau (BBB), carry out online searches and evaluations and ask the business in concern for referrals. Nevertheless, all these methods fall short of thorough transparency. The BBB in fact works for the business it represents as they are just ranked if the company in concern pays them a repeating cost. Online review sites seldom show all of the evaluations received, and post evaluations from sources that are not constantly reliable. This offers a platform for companies to post their own reviews and people to hastily publish evaluations without the business in concern's ability to expertly solve the problem. Furthermore, no business would offer an unfavorable reference; only those that are very favorable. None of these are ideal dynamics for consumers looking for totally unbiased reviews and references. It is encouraged to use these approaches as an informed customer and think about the information source for what it deserves.
One of the finest methods to discover a new air conditioning, heating and ventilation professional is by means of the "word-of-mouth" approach. If the company advised was budget-friendly, expert and dependable for a good friend or relative, there is a great chance that company will do the very same for you. Great companies use the word-of-mouth method to continuously offer a new customer stream by keeping their consumers happy.
Other traditional techniques for finding a brand-new cooling, heating and ventilation contractor include carrying out online searches, phone book directory sites or online directories and other ad mediums. Bear in mind that all of these methods are bought and spent for by the companies in question. None of these methods should serve as a review and needs to be utilized only as finding sources.
3rd celebration providers such as Angie's list, Find Local and other online business are the latest platforms for sourcing and rating cooling, heating and aerating business. Although these companies do provide a service with some merit, they are, in fact, including expense to the consumer. Angie's List, in addition to some other online organisation directory sites, charge the consumer directly for their rankings and companies' contact details. Other third-party sites offer consumers with cooling, heating and ventilation business and include the expense of being a middle-man to the company equation. Bear in mind that none of these are "free" and that customers must understand the expense and value of utilizing entities like these.
Several quotes are suggest when employing a cooling and heating contractor. There are no industry standards for pricing A/C associated product or service. Comparable jobs can vary thousands of dollars from one company to the next. A minimum of 3 estimates is advised prior to the repair or replacement of any major cooling and or heater component and prior to the style and setup of new systems.
A 2nd opinion can be of value if the repair or replacement is pricey. Not all specialists or business are equal or credible. Repairing cooling and heater is very intricate. It is not uncommon for a repair work specialist to be not able to separate the problem or for an agent to advise an unneeded purchases. Contacting a competing a/c and heating business can conserve time and money and regret.
Air Conditioning Service, Repair & Installation
Frequently Asked Questions:
How Do I Add Central Air Conditioning To A 100 Years Old House?
My House Is 100 Years Old And Has Forced Hot Air Heat. The Gas Furnace Is A 90% Efficiency And 5 Years Old. I Have A 7 Years Old Central Air Condition System That Is Used But In Very Good Shape. Does Anyone Know If I Can Somehow Combine The Two. I Am Very Cost Conscious, So I Would Like To Do It Myself.
Please Off Any And All Suggestions.
I would suggest a window unit so as not to mess up the stately aspect of an old house that probably isn't insulated so to at least have one or two rooms comfortable ,like the bedroom, a window unit can be removed without unsightly damage to appearance to your home, and much cheaper in the long haul.
Thinking Of Buying A Home From 1968 With Radiant Heat...?
The Home Is Amazing. I Love Nearly Everything About It. There'S Two Things I Don'T Like Though. No Central Air And Has Radiant Ceiling Heat. My Question Is How Much Would It Cost To Get Rid Of The Radiant Heating And Install A More Modern Forced Air System? There Is No Duct Work Currently Installed, Therefore We Would Have To Install All The Duct Work And Add An A/C Unit. The House Is 1700 Sq Ft In Central Ohio. I'M Just Looking For A Ballpark Figure. The Cost Of Installing A Complete Heating System And Central Air.
A few things:
a) If you are thinking of traditional low-velocity ducted systems, that will be both extremely disruptive and expensive relative to the newer high-velocity ducted systems that are available today for both heating and cooling.
b) If you install such a system for cooling only, you will reduce the cost by not requiring the installation of a furnace in addition to the air-handler and outside compressor.
c) In terms of your personal comfort, radiant heat will make you feel warmer than forced air heat assuming proper installation. You will be heated by warm surfaces vs. air temperature - for an analogy, imagine the comfort of standing in front of a warm fire - and there will be far fewer drafts (convection currents from cold surfaces).
So, look up either "Flex-Duct" HVAC systems which are specifically designed as retro-fit systems for older, historic and those houses built without ducted systems originally. A link to one such system (of several) is below.
Consider the advantages of two separate systems vs. one single system, and make an informed decision.
As to cost: Without any sort of calculations or any sort of understanding of how the house is laid out and going strictly by rules-of-thumb:
a) 2.5 ton compressor/evaporator system, installed and tested ~$3,500
b) Air-Handler system, including controls: $1,400
c) Ducted supply, partial plenum-return: $250/room.
The above numbers are a bit on the high side for the equipment as this is a new installation and I am allowing for the installation of a pad on the exterior, wiring, controls, switchgear and similar, and some structural accomodations for the air-handler on the inside. As to the ductwork, that is a straight hip-shot - if this is a ranch house with a full-size attic, that price will be lower. If it is a three-story Victorian it could go higher. If multiple air-handlers are required, add yet more.
If you have the land - you might wish to investigate a geothermal heat-pump system as well.
Based on your additional information - a geothermal heat-pump may be an excellent option with the first-cost being little higher than a conventional system with the addition of a fuel-fired furnance. This will provide both heating and cooling reserving the electric radiant heat for extreme cold conditions.
And, one of the great virtues of the HP-miniduct system is that it may be installed without disturbing much of anything visible.
How Can I Get Rid Of The Smell Of Cat Urine In The Air?
I Have A Lazy Family And We Don'T Clean Our Cat'S Litter Box As Often As We Should (But We Will Now) It'S One Of Those Closed Litter Box'S With A Cat Door, Well The Smell Builds Up In It And Eventually It Gets Out And That'S When We Clean It. But Now The Smell Is All Over Most Of The Apartment And We Don'T Know How To Get Rid Of It. I'Ve Looked This Up But I Only Get Things On How To Clean Cat Urine From A Carpet Or Something But My Cat Only Pees In His Litter Box And The Smell Is In The Air, Not The Floor Or An Object. The Other Day My Best Friend Said I Smelled Like Cat Pee And Then Said It Was A Joke But I Got Really Scared So That'S Why I'M Asking This.
Epic Eli, I understand your concern. I agree that washing or spraying Febreze on all fabrics and washing the walls and floors will help a lot. Airing the place out is a necessity. Carpet deodorizing powder that you sprinkle on and vacuum up will also help.
That said, there are a lot of things that can contribute to a strong urine odor. First, is your cat neutered? Because cats that aren't neutered have the worst smelling urine in the world. If not, please get him neutered right away. Intact male cats usually spray foul-smelling urine to mark their territories. If you look closely at walls or furniture, you may see residue about a foot and a half up. I hope you're right that it's just the litter box, but I have doubts that a dirty litter box, while it would smell evil, could make you smell like cat pee. Here's a link to low cost spay/neuter:
Pet stores sell black lights (some party and novelty stores also sell them). Cat urine shows up under black light. I really think you should invest in one and look around your apartment for cat urine. If the litter box is as bad as you say, your cat would be completely within his rights not to use it! Clean any urine spots you may find with an enzyme cleaner like Simple Solution or Nature's Miracle, sold at pet stores by the gallon.
Obviously, the biggest problem is the litter box. Throw it out! Plastic is so porous that it has probably permanently absorbed the ammonia stink. The way to prevent ammonia odor from forming - and ammonia is very unhealthy for you and your family to be breathing - is to use scoopable litter and maintain it at a depth of about three inches. The urine will largely sit on the top, where you can scoop it out before ammonia odor forms. Also, from a labor standpoint, scooping a few things out with a scoop and throwing them into a plastic bag isn't nearly as much of a drag as having to change a filthy litter box, wash it out, etc. Scooping litter does track more, but if you buy a nice, BIG clear storage box from Walmart, it's deep enough that more of the litter will stay in. Buy a litter scoop and a bucket or two of Tidy Cats scoopable litter. Keep the bucket next to the box so that the cat can use it to get in and out of the deep litter box. I bought my litter box (storage container) for $9. It comes almost up to my knees, and my cats love it. It also keeps the cat from overshooting the edge of the box. You'll be able to see the condition of the box, rather than going into litter box denial. Really, it will take two minutes to scoop it every day.
An automatic litter box like a Litter Maid would be another option, but they are rather costly and a pain to clean.
Once you get the black light and you get the apartment freshened up and aired out, you will want to wash all the clothes hanging in your closet, as they will have absorbed this odor. Put a scoop of OxiClean powder (or Sun Oxygen cleaner, which they sell at Walmart) into the hot water as the machine fills. Then add detergent, then the clothes. I used to use this stuff to deodorize my ferret litter pan - it works like magic. Ask your friend to honestly tell you if you ever smell like cat pee again. I think the OxiClean will do the trick, but sometimes clothes do absorb odors permanently, so if he gives you the thumbs-down, throw out whatever you're wearing.
Good luck! I wish you and your family (and your kitty) the best.
How Much Is It Going To Cost To Put Central Air Conditioning In Condo? I Have Goodman Model #Gmp075-3 Furnace?
The Condo Has Windows Facing West And The Sqft Is 1224. Two Story. The Furnace Is A Goodman Model #Gmp075-3. Will I Also Need To Replace My Furnace?
You can leave the furnace in place. They will just add whats called a cased coil, line set and condensing unit (ac). Slight modification to the ductwork, no big deal.
You should have no issues at all using whats in place. In this case the evaporator coil is not inside the furnace. So when you purchase the new ac unit, they will add the cased coil. The cased coil contains the evaporator coil. This stand along box, either sits on top of the existing or bottom depending on air flow. If they try and tell you that the furnace wont work because A its too old B its not for R410A. Call another company. You should have no problems. I did one last summer for a couple. 8 year old gas furnace and put in a 5 ton R410A condensing unit. No problems at all.
Heating As Opposed To Air Conditioning?
My Local Mcdonalds Have Their Air Conditioning On All The While.
Even When It Is Cold It Is Freezing In There, They Hardly Ever Use The Heating.
I Sit In There Drinking My Tea And Have To Wear A Coat (I Do Eat The Food But It Is Very Very Rare)
I Was Once Told When That It Costs Virtually The Same To Power An Air Conditioning Unit In These Places As Opposed To Switching On The Heating?
Is There Any Truth In This? Thanks
Well, actually, "air conditioning" includes heating and cooling. We just use stupid children's terms, like calling zero the letter "o" when they are not the same (the letter 'o' on your cell phone is on the six key, what used to be the operator key is the zero key, so if you dial "two-oh-two area code" to reach Washington DC, you are actually dialing area code 262!).
In a food establishment and in some industrial buildings, it is important to maintain an air ambience. Sometimes it is part of the air purging system such as in a hospital or chemical factory, sometimes it is to maintain cleanliness as in a restaurant or fast food joint, and there are various other reasons.
So it could be that the air system of a particular building will continue to function whether the temperature needs to be cooler or warmer, or no change at all in temperature. If that is the case, there will be little difference in the cost of running a unit continuously.
However, sometimes air pressure is used to keep bugs or pollutants out of a building. Sometimes the temperature control system may only function if the building is not open to the outside directly for more than brief moments, and so there are no controls for heat and cold beyond the master control panel. Therefore, a constant temperature is maintained by keeping the building closed and continuously forcing temperature-controlled air into all rooms of the building at the same time. These are just a few examples of the engineering that goes into buildings, and no doubt, a heating and air conditioning professional can give a better explanation than my limited knowledge.